Happy birthday to, dare I say it, one of my favourite wines.
Chianti Classico, which lays claim to the world’s oldest legally defined wine region is celebrating 300 years. That’s a pretty significant milestone.
On Sept. 24, 1716 the Grand Duke Cosimo III de Medici officially defined the boundaries of Chianti in a select part of the Tuscan hills between Florence and Siena. Over time, it grew well beyond these and eventually a “classic” zone was established referring to original area. Thus the division between Chianti and Chianti Classico was born. This Saturday, it’s the latter which is being feted.
Who knows exactly what the wine was like back in Cosimo III’s day. Chianti Classico has evolved and improved over the years. Today it’s based on Sangiovese (minimum 80 per cent) and is one of this noble grape’s finest expressions. Subtle differences depend on which (if any) grapes are blended with Sangiovese as well as where in the Classico zone the wine hails from. The region itself is complex with varying elevations, exposures, soils and microclimates giving a wealth of diversity.
Despite variations, you can count on Chianti Classico to be savoury, structured and hunger inducing. The wines are simply heaven with typical Tuscan dishes like bistecca alla fiorentina, pappardelle in a wild boar ragù, duck sauce with pici (a thicker version of spaghetti), braised rabbit or ribollita soup. Chianti Classico’s birthday coincides brilliantly with the transition to autumn dining.
You know what I’ll be drinking this weekend.
2013 Rocca delle Macìe • Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy • $16.99, BC Liquor Stores
Rocca delle Macìe is owned by the Zingarelli family, tireless and passionate ambassadors of the Chianti Classico region. Their entry level offering is an affordable, go-to staple. With friendly and appealing floral, cherry and dried herb nuances, it is light on its feet and approachable.
2013 Ricasoli Brolio • Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy • $25.99, BC Liquor Stores
The Ricasoli family boasts a whooping 32 generations of wine making. It was also Baron Bettino Ricasoli who is credited with creating the Chianti recipe in 1872 based on Sangiovese blended with other local grapes. This is a modern interpretation where international varieties Merlot (15%) and Cab Sauv (5%) are used to round Sangiovese out. A plump, generous expression that is still tangy and intriguing with tobacco, tarragon and black cherry notes.
2012 Rocca di Montegrossi • Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy • $29.99, BC Liquor Stores
As a counter-balance to the above, the Rocca di Montegrossi is a more traditional blend with five per cent each Canaiolo and Colorino added to Sangiovese. Fragrant red berry and violet aromas followed by exotic spice and underbrush on the palate. It’s fresh, juicy, graceful and delicious! Well worth seeking out.
2013 Fontodi • Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy • $32.99, BC Liquor Stores
Fontodi’s vineyards are located in a sweet spot known as the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell). Privileged vines bask in the sun of this south facing amphitheatre. Always one of the finest examples of 100 per cent Sangiovese, Fontodi’s Chianti Classico is earthy, savoury and mineral-y with dark brooding forest fruit, leather and cinnamon all held together by firm tannins.
2013 Fèlsina Berardenga • Chianti Classico DOC, Italy • $45-48, private wine stores (such as Everything Wine & Liberty Point Grey)
Fèlsina is a top-notch property located in warm southeastern corner of the region known for powerful, intense wines. Elegant yet grippy with plush ripe plum, wild berries, balsam and tea leaves, the Berardenga possesses plenty of concentration and complexity to merit cellaring for a decade. Yes, you can also drink now.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
