Canada Day calls for barbecues and lots of clicking of glasses. In honour of our vast and diverse country, I propose putting away any friendly rivalries and celebrating our booze making efforts from coast to coast.
2009 Benjamin Bridge, ‘Méthode Classique’ Brut • Nova Scotia • $43.39
Nova Scotia may seem like an unlikely place to grow grapes yet there are a handful of believers. Taking a page from the famous cool climate region of Champagne, they have hung their hat on sparkling wine. Benjamin Bridge is at the fore crafting impressive bubbles using the rigorous traditional method. The choice of varieties is predominantly hybrid grapes (crossings of different vine species) bred specifically to handle the cold winters and short growing season. Here L’Acadie and Seyval Blanc are blended with Chardonnay. Beautiful acacia flowers, apple blossom and white grapefruit peel are complemented by the fine mousse and tangy acidity.
Unibroue, Blanche de Chambly • Quebec • $5.69
Although Québec does make wine, its strength is still very much beer. And this is how I choose to toast our Québécois brethren. From humble beginnings just 25 years ago, Unibroue is now owned by Japanese giant Sapporo. The brewery was founded on the traditional brewing methods of Belgium’s Trappist monks and the Blanche de Chambly was one of their first offerings. Made in the style of a Belgium white ale or witbier, its cloudy nature is due to the fact that it is unfiltered. Expect an assertive snap along with exotic Indian spice and a refreshing citrusy character.
2013 Closson Chase, ‘The Brock’ Chardonnay • Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, VQA • $20.89
As much as we like to tout our BC wines, Ontario boasts some equally laudable examples too. Check out Closson Chase for verification. Their focus is admirably tight. Inspired by wines from the region of Burgundy, they concentrate solely on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Fruit for The Brock is sourced from Niagara Peninsula giving a rich, fairly tropical expression with melon, baked apple, butter, spice and vanilla notes.
Highwood Distillers, ‘White Owl’ Whisky • Alberta • $31.29
A nod to our neighbours directly to the East, Highwood is an Alberta-based independent distiller making a unique white whisky. Usually this refers to one that hasn’t been aged, but to be called whisky in Canada the booze must be barrel matured for a minimum of three years. White Owl blends wheat-based spirit aged for ten years in charred oak barrels with some slightly younger rye. It’s filtered to remove the inevitable colour these vessels impart. Mellow with a lemon biscuit note and a subtle spicy kick. A summer whisky? A characterful alternative to vodka? Call it what you will, just go ahead and blend it with coke or use it instead of vodka in a Caesar.
2012 Moraine, Pinot Noir • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $22-26*
My recent tasting with winemaker Jacqueline Kemp prompts this shout-out to Moraine. Despite an impressive résumé locally and abroad, Kemp flies under the radar. The honest, well-priced wines she is making for Moraine demonstrate her humility and gentle touch. Both the 2012 and 2013 Pinot Noir have pretty violet floral aromas but my preference is for the slightly bonier and stonier 2012. Some readers may prefer the more fruit laden and fleshier 2013. The latter is what is currently available at the winery but you can still find a smattering of 2012 at selected private retailers.
Prices are exclusive of taxes.
*Private wine stores only. All other products available at BC Liquor Stores.
