Official recognition of the Golden Mile Bench as a sub-appellation is definitely a milestone for BC’s young wine industry. As our first Geographical Indication (GI), it acknowledges our diverse vineyard area and paves the way for linking wine to a very specific place.
Sandra Oldfield of Tinhorn Creek clarifies, “We’re not defining a marketing association, we’re defining a region.” As such, all involved were adamant that it had to be rooted in science. The result is a cohesive area with clearly defined boundaries based on measurable geographical factors, specifically slope, soil and elevation. In general terms, the Golden Mile Bench is a notably sloping east-facing escarpment that sits above the valley floor with alluvial fan soil derived from Mount Kobau.
To label wines with the Golden Mile Bench GI, 95 per cent of the fruit must come from this area.
“It’s not saying that the wines are better or worse but simply that they are unique,” stresses Donald Triggs of Culmina.
In fact, producers agree that it is too early to even talk about a specific style. Tinhorn Creek alone has 12 different grape varieties planted on their Golden Mile site, most of which are white. Conversely, the neighbouring property of Fairview Cellars is dedicated to red Bordeaux grapes while Road 13 is turning its attention to Rhône varieties (Syrah, Marsanne and Roussanne).
The overriding consensus is now that the region has been legally defined, comparisons within the area and contrasts with the rest of the Okanagan can start to be explored.
“Over time the attributes will show and we’ll see differences in the regions but it’s going to take time,” acknowledges Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars.
This isn’t just a coup for the Golden Mile Bench. Joe Luckhurst from Road 13 believes it has set a precedent for wineries and growers in other areas wishing to achieve official sub-regional status as well.
“We were able to create a template of how to do it,” Luckhurst asserts.
The Golden Mile Bench designation will start appearing on labels in the coming months. In the meantime, following are a few wines made either entirely or predominantly from this area.
2013 Gehringer Brothers, Private Reserve Riesling • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $13.09, BC Liquor Stores
Pioneers in the area, the Gehringers purchased the property in 1981 and have always focused on Germanic varieties. This assertive Riesling offers green apple, lemon, white grapefruit pith and peach sorbet as well as lip-smacking acidity.
2013 Tinhorn Creek, Gewurtztraminer • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $14.79, BC Liquor Stores
About 75 per cent of the fruit comes from Tinhorn’s Golden Mile Bench vineyard. Subsequent vintages will likely contain the requisite 95 per cent. Gewurz fans will revel in scents of rose petals and musk melon along with flavours of juicy peaches and a hint of sweetness.
2011 Road 13, Old Vines Chenin Blanc • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $29-34, Legacy Liquor Store
In 2008, the Luckhursts changed the name of this property from Golden Mile Cellars as they became convinced that this moniker belonged to the region as a whole. Now it truly does. Made from vines planted in 1968, this Chenin is truly one of BC’s gems and well worth seeking out. Concentrated quince, honey and succulent apricots with sweetness deftly balanced by vibrant acidity.
2011 Fairview Cellars, The Bear • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $42-46, winery direct and private wine stores
A Bordeaux blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. Savoury aromas of eucalyptus, sage and tobacco with black plum and wild black currants. Finishes with lots of spice which Bill Eggert attributes to the Golden Mile.
*Prices exclusive of taxes.
