Amay’s House
5076 Victoria
604-327-2629
Facebook.com/AmaysHouse
Open Wednesday-Monday, 11am-9pm (10am on weekends).
The Republic of the Union of Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) is likely one of the most isolated countries on the Asian continent. Bordered by Bangladesh, India, China, Thailand and Laos, its borders have been quite effectively sealed off since 1962 by the military junta that was in control until 2011 (and many would argue it’s still in control today). Many Burmese, however, and especially those outside of the country, still prefer their existing moniker to the more geopolitically-correct Myanmarese (and there are more than a few Facebook pages to prove it), much in the same way that Persians distinguish themselves despite coming from the Islamic Republic of Iran.
The point of all this? Burmese cuisine is not a common find in Vancouver. In fact, there are a grand total of three restaurants that specialize in the cuisine of this region, one of which is Amay’s House on Victoria Drive. The name, in case you were wondering, is not that of owners (and husband and wife) Hihaa Kyaw and Mya Nyunt. “Amay” is the Burmese word for “mother,” a fond reference to Mr. Kyaw’s own mother.
It’s an apropos name for a place that feels so welcoming. Warm smiles and attentive service are always appreciated, but savvy suggestions on what to feed a motley crew of six, all with disparate tastes and preferences, is a gift of the angels. Amay’s recently underwent a renovation, brightening up the main dining room with bright green walls and matted chairs, but the prices still don’t break nine dollars for any dish, and, while some menu items have been eliminated (mainly the generic “other Asian” plates), the core Burmese recipes are firmly in place and pulsing with flavour.
Myanmar tea leaf salad ($7.50) is a standout of fermented tea leaves, tomato, assorted beans and lentils, peanuts and cabbage. It’s a beautiful, earthy dish that offers up loads of textural contrast while surprising the palate with the sweet-savoury-salty profile. The cuisine takes its influences from the countries that surround it, so it’s not surprising to see prata, the Indian fried flat bread, on the menu. What is surprising (and most delightful) is the choice of what it comes with for $5. Go for the creamy egg spread that surrounds the bread like a cozy blanket and speaks to a deep and dangerous understanding of the lovely taste of fried bread and slightly-runny yolk.
The classic laksa ($8.50), a rich coconut-curry broth loaded with prawns, chicken, fish balls (made from cod), clams and hardboiled egg, is also topped with a crunchy tofu puff. Try it with the yellow wheat noodle for the most authentic experience (and the most delicious). If you’re avoiding gluten, thick rice noodles make a decent substitute. Mr. Kyaw is a master pastry chef, with a deft hand for both the bread and the samosas, the latter of which, at five pieces for five dollars, are a total steal and deceptively simple.
Royal noodle salad is the same price as “regular” noodle salad ($7), but gives infinitely more bang for the buck, thanks to the bean powder-topped udon noodles, chicken curry, fresh cilantro, raw onions, pan- and deep-fried noodle bits, and the utterly perfect and deeply aromatic broth that you get to pour over the whole concoction (or just drink straight from the bowl).
Service can sometimes be a little slow, since this truly is a mom-and-pop operation, but the food is worth it. If you’re in a tearing rush, you can always pre-order it to go. Amay’s does a thriving take-away business, it seems, and even offers delivery after 5pm, but the best experience is to be had in-house, with a bowl of noodles and some eggy bread.
Hear Anya Levykh every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
