Figuring there were, oh, about a dozen wineries in British Columbia at the end of the '80s, and now we’re up around 235, it’s safe to say the growth has been rapid and keeping up with the scene has proven more difficult as the years, or even months, go by.
As with anything, separating the wheat from the chaff to find good quality and new favourites can be a challenge, but what a fun challenge it is!
I’d heard of the Okanagan Valley’s River Stone Estate Winery starting up a few years back when Jacqueline Kemp, now winemaker at Naramata’s Moraine Wines, was doing a little consulting with them. Kemp is one of the best winemakers in the Okanagan, and has been consulted with some of the Okanagan’s most acclaimed wineries over the years, up to and including Kelowna’s Tantalus Vineyards.
When she works with a winery, I always take note because she has an eye for quality and potential, culminating in a knack for setting fledgling wineries on the right path. While it seems like a cop out to use a cliché like, 'Almost everything she touches turns to gold,' I’m afraid I’m going to have to here.
When Lorraine and Ted Kane, both with medical backgrounds, picked up from their Alberta home and planted roots in Oliver to ‘live the dream,’ they’d tapped Kemp to assist them with getting things up and running. After studying viticulture at Okanagan College and getting their hands dirty planting their estate vineyard, they soon stood on their own feet easily, growing grapes that were high quality and mightily expressive of South Okanagan terroir. After a few years of selling their grapes, much of them to Naramata’s renowned Laughing Stock Vineyards, they’re now crafting their own fare and I’m quite impressed with the quality, value, and hands-off winemaking approach.
These wines simply taste like the South Okanagan; dappled in sunshine, chock-full of minerality and kissed with the odd hint of sage. Here are four of their wines you need to know with winery-direct prices, but you can also track ‘em down at private wine stores here in Vancouver for a couple bucks more. Info on availability and the winery in general is over at RiverStoneEstateWinery.ca.
River Stone 2013 Malbec Rosé | $19.90
Super limited, you’ll only be able to find this one winery-direct or at a few restaurants around town. A wave of red berry fruit washes over some rocks with a few rose petals floating about. Ripe and juicy, it all rounds out with a dry, raspberry-laden finish.
River Stone 2012 Pinot Gris | $19.90
The style here is right in between lean, high-acid, Italian-esque Pinot Grigio and the warmer climate, ripe and round versions of the variety. Caped gooseberry, green apple, Asian pear and maybe a leaf or two of sage just sing. Quite full of character for a grape often considered one-dimensional.
River Stone 2011 Merlot | $19.90
We have a dark and inky Merlot here, with some concentrated plum, black fruit and anise. It’s definitely big on flavour, but the tannins are finely polished and the acidity’s in check. Everything from poultry to game, all the way up to big red meats will accompany it well.
River Stone 2010 Corner Stone | $28.50
Tasting this combo of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, I was bracing myself for a $35 or $40 price-point. Huzzah! For under 30 bucks, we have a classic BC take on a Bordeaux-styled blend, dizzy with currants, espresso, dark chocolate and a whisper of mint. Start carving that roast!
As always, if you’re having trouble finding something or just want to say hi, find me via KurtisKolt.com or on Twitter @KurtisKolt
