Aree Thai
1150 Kingsway | 604-709-9229 | AreeThaiRestaurants.com
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 5pm-10pm
Like the many other ethnic mom-and-pop restaurants strewn along Kingsway, Aree Thai isn’t that prepossessing from the outside. A mix of industrial and retail peppers the block, and the restaurant sits across from the British Ex-Servicemen’s Association, a neon-clad pub that requires guests to be buzzed in through a locked door. You can’t park on the street in the evenings until after 6pm, which explains why the restaurant tends to get busy shortly thereafter.
It’s better once you step through the door. The room won’t win any design awards, but it’s clean, bright and strewn with authentic Thai wall art brought over by the owners. There’s a lot of take-out business here most nights, with a steady flow of dine-in customers. I’ve yet to see it packed, but it’s rarely empty.
The food here is authentic and flavourful, with lots of complex layers and plenty of heat for those who want it. The beer selection isn’t impressive, but it’s the Thai iced tea ($2.95) you want to go for anyway. Laced with condensed milk and crushed tamarind seeds, it’s the perfect accompaniment to the spicier dishes. If you really want a glass of wine, the restaurant has a surprisingly decent selection, with several Gewürtz, Pinot Gris and Riesling options that would play nicely with the citrus and coconut flavours in many of the dishes.
Speaking of, start with the deep-fried fish cakes ($7.95), seasoned with chili paste and studded with minced green beans. The dipping sauce is vinegary and sweet, with tiny flecks of fresh cucumber and peanut crumbs. Tom yum, the traditional Thai hot and spicy soup, is a steal at $8.95 for a large vegetarian or chicken bowl, beautifully flavoured with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal (a plant similar to ginger). It’s wonderfully aromatic, with oodles of wild mushrooms, bean sprouts and vegetables. The assorted seafood ($11.95 for a large bowl) was the winner, however, with fresh, plump mussels and clams, chunks of assorted fin fish, and succulent prawns. For a creamier, less spicy alternative, try the tom kha for the same price, a coconut-based version that is more earthy. That being said, you can always custom order your spice, but be warned: “mild” tends to still mean some chili pepper action, so if you’re looking to avoid them altogether, you need to spell it out.
The larb ($9.96) is an interesting mix of the traditional Laotian recipe and the more pungent northern Thai style. While there is lime juice to brighten up the minced pork (or chicken, if you prefer), it is paired with both cooked onions and raw shallots, fresh cilantro. No blood used (too bad), but it’s an earthy, almost feral dish, and might not be for those with delicate sensibilities. Served with some salad and rice, it’s a complete and delicious meal.
Whatever you order, don’t miss the house pad thai ($9.96). Stir-fried noodles are tossed with tomato sauce, crumbled egg, tofu, bean sprouts and ground peanut, plus your choice of chicken, pork, beef or tofu (prawns are $2 extra). It’s an unusual and winning combination, and is large enough for four to share.
It doesn’t mention this on the menu for some reason, but the ice cream is made in-house. One night, it was pomegranate, a tangy-sweet cream that paired perfectly with the deep-fried banana ($4.95) for a classic treat.
Aree is only open for dinner currently, while they search for additional kitchen help, but hopefully they’ll be back open for lunch soon, so stay tuned.
Hear Anya Levykh every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★
Service: N/A
Ambiance: N/A
Value: ★★★
Overall: ★★★
