A sure sign of spring for me is the arrival of asparagus. When these green shoots poke through the ground, my cooking repertoire changes radically. Move over meat braises and roasted root vegetables and make way for steamed asparagus tossed in butter and served with fresh halibut.
Asparagus often inspires my entire meal. It serves as a superb base for salads but is equally tantalizing grilled alongside a juicy steak. When I am feeling nostalgic, I wrap asparagus in ham and smother in a lemony hollandaise sauce (this retro creation is simply too tasty to ever go out of style). Asparagus season also tends to coincide brilliantly with the appearance of morel mushrooms and the ultimate spring risotto combines the two.
However it’s incorporated into a meal, asparagus always makes its presence known. With powerful flavours and a slight bitterness, this vegetable is considered tricky to match with wine.
Pshaw! Choices abound.
Overtly grassy and zippy Sauvignon Blanc is a natural partner. New Zealand and Chile make great hunting ground for affordable and assertive examples. When Sauvignon meets Semillon the two can produce a fuller-bodied wine that will take on more robust dishes. This blend is beautifully demonstrated by the whites of Bordeaux. With particularly buttery or cheesy preparations, an unoaked fruity Chard works like a charm. And for something completely different, try a dry Muscat. Savvy winemakers in the French region of Alsace have been suggesting this charming combo for ages. Crisp and herbal Italian wines like Verdicchio and Pecorino are a couple of other off the beaten track gems worth experimenting with.
And yes, you can have your asparagus and drink red too. In fact, it’s the ideal time to sip on Cabernet Franc. Producing a lighter red, this unsung grape can be stunningly fragrant with earthy and herbal qualities and bright crunchy acidity. Some of the finest come from the Loire Valley and will be labelled by appellations names of Chinon, Saumur-Champigny and Bourgueil.
2013 Emiliana Adobe Reserva, Chardonnay • Casablanca Valley, Chile • $11.29
No detectable oak here just ripe tropical fruit balanced by fresh citrus. A fuller-bodied and great value white that will stand up to asparagus smothered in a decadent hollandaise sauce.
2013 Umani Ronchi, ‘Casal di Serra’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi • Classico Superiore DOC, Italy • $17.39
A brilliant demonstration of Verdicchio; one of Italy’s most characterful white grapes. Anise, golden delicious apple, bitter almond and intense lemon notes are a friendly match with asparagus. Drizzle in olive oil and top with lots of grated parmesan.
2012 Paul Zinck, Muscat • Alsace AOC, France • $19.19
Gorgeous floral aromas and yummy musk melon flavours balanced by orange peel. Just so pure and pretty. Cook your asparagus with an oriental twist.
2011 Domaine Baudry, ‘Les Grézeaux’ • Chinon AOC, France • $29.19
This medium weight, punchy red offers crunchy blackcurrant, tobacco leaf and peppery notes along with a subtle smokiness. It’s the wine to crack when steak and asparagus are destined to meet on the grill.
2012 Robert Mondavi, Fumé Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard • Napa Valley, California • $40.89
Sauvignon Blanc takes on just a bit of Semillon and is partially barrel fermented for added weight and complexity. An explosion of nectarine, guava, sweet herbs and flowers with a creamy texture and refreshing grapefruit finish. A splurge indeed but perfect with pan roasted halibut and al dente asparagus bathed in butter.
All wines available at BC Liquor Stores. Prices are exclusive of taxes.
