I was happy from the moment I walked through the door of Kitsilano's Au Comptoir. A bright sky-lit space with a fabulous tin bar (imported from France) on one side and vintage sewing machine stands serving as tables in the dining area, Au Comptoir is both comforting and innovative in look and feel. The design gives subtle, tasteful nods to its location, like the living herb wall behind the bar.
The brainchild of two young French industry veterans, Julien Aubin and Maxime Bettili, Au Comptoir is a reservations-free café/brasserie that offers the best of French service and hospitality principles, at prices to which Vancouverites need not turn their noses up. Both Aubin and Bettili have plenty of experience on the local scene, including stints at Les Faux Bourgeois, Bistro Pastis, and Jules Bistro. What’s unique here is the completely à votre plaisir feel. Stay for an hour or three, and the service is the same. This is something unique to France, where tipping is not the norm. How well it will translate in Vancouver is yet to be seen, but it was lovely not to be rushed through a meal, despite the growing line on several evenings.
The food was another point of pleasure. Classic bistro plates like bavette (skirt steak) are done ridiculously well. The perfectly medium-rare slices ($24) came with France’s version of tater tots, otherwise known as pommes dauphines. I would seriously recommend the Roquefort sauce for the steak; it was rich without being overly stinky (as blue cheese sauces are wont to be), and was nicely offset by the simple and elegant mixed greens. A “unilateral” salmon ($24) at first caused some confusion (were we at a political rally?) but was quickly clarified as salmon grilled on one side only (the skin side, of course), and served with wilted kale and tagliatelle in a tarragon beurre blanc.
If you can, come on a Monday to try the weekly “Parisian sushi,” another of those tasteful nods to its location. One night, this was a foie gras maki with pear, topped with chives and crumbled hazelnuts ($19). It was an extraordinary and wholly surprising dish, with perfect flavour balance and textural contrast. And, please don’t miss out on dessert. The revolving dessert carousel at the back of the room tells its own story, and the tarte citron ($7) is excellent. Crème caramel ($7) was nice, but not memorable.
Much better was the wine list, which features a handful of reds and whites by the glass, and a good assortment of bottles at reasonable markups. My Chateau Peyros ($11) was excellent value for a hearty pour, and there are quality hops for those in need.
Au Comptoir has quickly become a hot spot, but I’m thinking – and hoping – this is more than a fleeting trend, and that’s worth a santé! or two.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★★1/2
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★★
Value: ★★★★
Overall: ★★★★
Hear Anya every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
