A few weeks ago, I wrote an exam in which one of the questions asked about the importance of alcohol in wine. Well, where to begin?
Don’t worry, I'm not going to attempt a scholarly essay here. Just a few words.
To state the obvious, alcohol is a defining element of wine. It’s the happy result of fermentation where grape sugars are converted into alcohol by the action of yeast, essentially transforming kid juice into adult juice.
Fermentation plays a role in the development of flavours and the alcohol it produces gives structure and contributes to the wine’s mouthfeel. And, let's face it, in moderate amounts, it can relax you.
There are legal definitions for wine; in Europe, for example, a minimum of 8.5 per cent ABV must be achieved (with some exceptions). Most of the wines we drink weigh in somewhere between 12.5 and 14.5 per cent, but plenty fall on either side of this scale.
No matter what the percentage, the key is that alcohol is in balance with all the other elements. When out of balance, the wine may finish with a slight burning sensation.
When the temperature rises, who wants that extra warmth? In the summertime, I tend to be more sensitive to higher-alcohol wines. So, I like to play it safe by lying low.
I am not suggesting dealcoholized or reduced-alcohol wine, but those that simply have a little less than average.
A&D LIV Vinho Verde DOC, Portugal, $13.49 BC Liquor Stores
Most vinho verde clocks in under 12 per cent. Super zippy, bright, lemony fruit with some juicy apricot and a tiny bit of spritz that gives it an even livelier kick. It is just made for pool-side, patio sipping.
2014 Balthasar Ress, Riesling, Rheinghau, Germany, $16.99 BC Liquor Stores
Alcohol only reaches 10.5 per cent by volume here as the fermentation was stopped before all the sugar finished converting. Just like lemonade, its lip-smacking, racy acidity is balanced by the right amount of sweetness for a thirst-quenching glass. Reminiscent of the season’s freshest peaches with a stony minerality, this will go down easy – I promise.
2015 Domaine Bonnet Huteau, ‘La Tarcière’ Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine AOC sur Lie, France, $23.99 BC Liquor Stores
Muscadet's regulations guarantee that the wine can never exceed 12 per cent ABV. It's really the quintessential summer tipple. Light and limpid, La Tarcière has a subtle leesy character with nuances of cucumber and apple. What could be more cooling?
Alta Alella, ‘Privat’ Brut Nature Cava DO Reserva, Spain, $28-30 Private wine stores such as Everything Wine, Kitsilano Wine Cellar & Legacy Liquor Store
Sparkling wine makes great hunting ground for modest alcohol and Cava typically sports around 11.5 per cent. The Alta Alella is a classy example with smoky, flinty aromas and citrus peel, blanched almonds flavours. It's super tangy, bone dry and slightly salty finishing with refreshing anise notes.
2015 Caves de Saumur, ‘Les Epinats’ Saumur AOC, France, $19.99 BC Liquor Stores
It's a bit more difficult to find reds that don’t tip the 12-per-cent scale, but they do exist. Give yourself a 0.5-per-cent leeway and troll through the regions of Beaujolais and the Loire Valley. This is from the latter. A medium-bodied Cabernet Franc, it offers crisp red currants and bright raspberry with a savoury herbal twist. Chill slightly and fire up the barbecue.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
