Tucked within the plethora of Best of the City readers choice awards this year is the Best Wine List category, which has Hawksworth Restaurant handily occupying the number one spot. In this wine-savvy city, its no small feat to be widely recognized as the best in your field, but its a testament to the dedication of Hawksworths small army of sommeliers that their excellence hasnt skipped a beat since wine director and sommelier Terry Threlfall hung up his jacket earlier this autumn to tackle a little wine travel and future endeavours. Currently hes tromping around Chiles sunny vineyards but can have peace of mind that the wine program he lovingly built, nabbing him a Vancouver International Wine Festival Platinum Award and the title of Sommelier of the Year, is moving forward and maintaining every aspect thats earned it so many accolades.
My favourite things include its balance of Old and New World classics and left-field oddities, the dozens of wines by the glass (including taster-sized portions), their dedication and pride in British Columbian wine, and strong, creative personality from the team that shows in every section.
One particular project of theirs that Im a fan of, and an increasing local trend I enjoy, is the creation of two custom-made wines in conjunction with a local winery as exclusive pours made with their particular style of cuisine in mind. Spearheaded last year by assistant wine director Jay Whiteley, who currently leads the wine program and sommelier team, the Similkameen Valleys Orofino Winery, along with owner/winemaker John Weber, worked with the team to create wines that would complement the fresh, lively and bright flavours signature to David Hawksworths food.
Hs Blend 2011 White ($11 per glass / $55 per bottle) is a quirky blend that sums up well. Half Pinot Gris and half Riesling, a sip is akin to taking a bite from a ripe, juicy Asian pear with a small spritz of lime as a chaser, with classic BC minerality shining through all the way. Hs Blend 2011 Red ($11 per glass / $55 per bottle) blends 100% Gamay from two different vineyards, resulting in what is becoming definitive style for the grape in the sandy, windswept region; an earthy, dusty handful of cherries with tiny flecks of fresh sage giving it a nice little lift. Extra points to Hawksworths wine team for always serving it with the slightest bit of a chill; the wine simply sings!
Second down in wine list department this issue is the encyclopaedic tome at Cioppinos in Yaletown a head-spinning list of depth and breadth. It offers everything from local gems for a few bucks a glass to far-back vintages of Bordeaux and Italian heavy-hitters that drink incredibly with Pinos elevated Mediterranean fare. Ogle celebrities and multi-million-dollar business deals being made over killer pastas and ossobuco, pick a legendary bottle and make sure someone else pays!
Rounding out the list is Gastowns LAbattoir where theres been another recent changing of the guard. After sommelier Jake Skakun headed to Toronto a couple months back, Robert Herman (Cin Cin, The Loden Hotel) stepped in, looking to continue the wine programs reputation for small-batch, unique selections not widely available elsewhere (Xinomavro from Greece, anyone?) and leading a well-engaged staff to curate your vinous journey.
Next week Ill follow up with a few more of the winners from this edition who take advantage of our proximity to wine country, partnering up with local winemakers to create tailor-made wines: Granville Islands Edible Canada, Cactus Club and more.
Congratulations to all of the WE Vancouver Best of the City winners!
