While grande dames like the late-lamented Le Gavroche and the still-going-strong Le Crocodile have served up French fine dining in the West End for more than 30 years, in the former student commune that is Kitsilano, restaurants like Bistro Pastis are still a rarity. A fairly elegant environment offering up classic French bistro fare in the midst of yoga pants and organic foods, this little bistro that could has, at first blush, stood the test of time rather well.
The late 90s/early 2000s were legendary days. That was the time when the perfectly cooked frites and the heavenly steak tartare were lauded as some of the best in the city. Subsequent successful toques were worn by chefs such as Brad Miller (Bistro Wagon Rouge), Dino Renaerts (Bon Vivant Group) and Tobias Grignon (Mamie Taylor’s). All three, along with current chef Spencer Watts, banded together at last week’s 15th anniversary celebration to create a multi-course, multi-chef menu that spanned the life of the restaurant.
Owner John Blakely has a wine list that rivals some of the best in the city. (In case you were wondering, despite the British name, Blakely is, in fact, French and has been awarded Le Medaille du Merite Agricole by the French Consul, making him akin to a knight in France.) The wines for the anniversary evening covered everything from an amazing Cote du Rhones Ogier to a W. Feves Petit Chablis and a Valmoissine Latour. In other words, truly outstanding wines. It was disappointing then, that some of the courses, including those of the current chef, lacked flavour and failed to do justice to the libations. Exceptions were Miller’s terrine de champagne with celery remoulade and Grignon’s boudin noir “cabbage roll” with seared scallop.
As for the regular menu, it has evolved over the years, but, some things, like the frites and tartare, remain constant. As have the cassoulet, the steak frites, and the roasted duck – all dishes that are worth a visit or two. Watts hasn’t monkeyed with what works, and seems to be maintaining the status quo. Where he seems to lose steam slightly is in dishes that require innovation or a delicate hand. Nonetheless, the restaurant will likely continue as a neighbourhood favourite, especially with the slightly older generation that have supported Pastis since its inception and are looking for more familiarity than innovation.
Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday from 5:30pm; lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30am-2pm; brunch Saturday-Sunday, 11am-2pm. 2153 West 4, 604-731-5020, BistroPastis.com
Food: ★★1/2
Service: ★★★
Ambiance: ★★★
Overall: ★★★
Anya Levykh writes about all things ingestible. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
