“2013 was not a vintage to look for values,” declares Barbara Philip, Master of Wine and Category Manager for the Wines of Europe at BC Liquor Stores. She’s referring to the latest vintage of Bordeaux, which will be released at selected BC Liquor Stores on Saturday, Oct. 15.
The growing season presented challenging weather conditions from start to finish. In the not-so-distant past, this would have resulted in a washout for all wines. Today, Bordeaux’s top châteaux have the resources to make the rigorous selection necessary in the vineyard and winery in order to produce successful wine. In 2013, these are a select and famous few, and so command lofty prices.
The hundreds of more modest properties, referred to as petit châteaux, aren’t as lucky. While they can be a source of great value in bless years, in tough vintages like 2013 they simply don’t have the means to effectively cope. As such, Philip did not include these in her 2013 purchases, focusing only on the very best of the vintage. (If I had the dough, Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien AOC [$129] and Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion AOC [$199] would be my choices.)
To satisfy budget-conscious buyers, Philip supplemented the small 2013 buy with a healthy selection of petit châteaux from highly regarded vintages like 2010, 2009, 2005, 2003 and 2000, ranging from $25 to $60. You’ll find those side by side the 2013s. The names may be unfamiliar, but the prices are right.
But even for 2013, there’s a silver lining. Bordeaux’s dry whites are typically overlooked next to the more famous Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot-based reds. In 2013, these Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends are the savvy pick of the vintage.
“The cool, long, late growing season gave time for complex flavours and aromas to develop,” Philip explains. They made such an impression on her that she brought in a higher ratio of white to red than ever before. The release includes 15 whites starting at $30.
Tasting through a sample assortment of these, I was equally captivated. The 2013 whites are fresh, vibrant and deftly proportioned wines offering a ton of pleasure. Now is truly the time to discover white Bordeaux.
2013 Clos des Lunes d’Argent • Bordeaux AOC, France • $35, BC Liquor Stores
With a high proportion of Semillon (70 per cent) to Sauvignon Blanc (30 per cent), this lovely white offers exotic lemon grass and tarragon notes, bright citrusy acidity and a subtle honeyed nuance.
2013 Château Olivier Blanc • Pessac-Léognan AOC, France • $60, BC Liquor Stores
Lightness, balance and sheer deliciousness! Aromas of vanilla and waxy herb give way to juicy nectarine and gravelly stone on the palate. Slightly creamy with a long lemony finish.
2013 Château Carbonnieux Blanc • Pessac-Léognan AOC, France • $65, BC Liquor Stores
So elegant and complex. Enticing mineral and candied lemon peel along with grapefruit, honeysuckle and integrated toast all carried by a persistent steely backbone.
Though I haven’t tasted these, I’d take a flyer on the 2013 Château la Garde Blanc (Pessac-Léognan AOC, $45), given my experience with past vintages, as well as the 2013 Château Rahoul Blanc (Graves AOC, $30), as this property’s reds are typically great value for money.
2010 Château du Vieux Puit • Côtes de Bordeaux Blaye AOC, France • $24.99, BC Liquor Stores
And for red Bordeaux aficionados, here’s an excellent example of one of those petit châteaux from the highly touted 2010 vintage. Ripe and plummy, it demonstrates an underlying earthiness and firmness of tannin that speaks to Bordeaux without compromising its charm.
• Prices exclusive of taxes.
