Botanist
1038 Canada Place | botanistrestaurant.com
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
When I think about fine dining restaurants in Vancouver, it’s generally not a time-consuming topic. About a handful of restaurants in the city truly meet “haute cuisine” and the matching service standards implied by that term. And, with the positively corpulent list of casual restaurants of every ilk, it didn’t seem like there was a need for anything more “fancy” than Cactus Club.
Turns out I was wrong. It’s been percolating for a few years, but the old “fine dining is dead” battle cry has gone more than a bit stale and, in its place, one might say, “Vive la (tres) haute cuisine.”
Botanist, the incarnation of the former Oru at the Fairmont Pacific Rim, is an interesting amalgamation of old, new and distinctively luxe. The latter is visible in everything from the tear-off coasters that are compostable and feel like handwoven linen (of a very high thread count, indeed), to the lush design of the new circular room that features silky sheers, central booths that curve flirtatiously around each other, and a soft light throughout that flatters every visage.
The noise factor seems to have been overlooked. There aren’t enough soft surfaces in the room to absorb sound, and music floats up from the downstairs lounge to occasionally clash with the in-room sound system or weekly live act. A little more insulation and absorption would work wonders and prevent having to yell at your dining companion.
To make up for it, though, there is the beautifully trained and perfectly welcoming staff, led by GM Shon Jones-Parry. The level of service is faultless, without pretension or formality, and attentive to the last detail.
Everyone from the runner who brought the fresh-baked fougasse bread – courtesy of pastry chef Jeffry Kahle – to wine director Jill Spoor is there to make your evening a delight.
And speaking of wine, this is a wine list well worth exploring. Spoor has compiled a list of organic, biodynamic and naturalist wines from smaller producers that focuses heavily on Italian grapes. No surprise, given her decade of working and living in Italy. The by-the-glass selections include some amazing finds, as well as some Champagnes for which one would normally have to shell out several hundred dollars. It might seem steep to pay $63 for a glass of bubbly, but when it’s a Barons de Rothschild Brut, it’s a steal of a deal. (Don’t worry, there are also more affordable glasses around the $14-mark.)
As the name might imply, there is a focus on local plants, fruits, vegetables, et al. This is especially apparent in the cocktail bar and lab, run by Grant Sceney and David Wolowidnyk. The collaborative drinks list is as creative as it is delicious. Cocktails like the Pretty Bird ($28) combine gin and bubbly with local seeds and berries in a bird-shaped glass that you sip through the glass straw that acts as a tail feather. The “bird” sits in its own nest, which has been built around the base of the stem. Another work of beauty is the Treebeard ($16), a woodsy sipper of Douglas fir gin, oaked rye, cedar syrup, birch sap, and alderwood smoked tea.
Don’t forget the food, though, amidst all the libatious delights. Executive chef Hector Laguna has created menus that focus on seasonal, foraged and locally grown ingredients. He works closely with small producers and keeps the menu vegetable-focused. Speaking later over the phone, Laguna explained his focus. “A piece of steak stays the same throughout the year, but vegetables change all the time. They become the main part of the dish. We won’t change the whole menu, but we will change four to five dishes at a time as things come in and out of season.”
A delightful bowl of tagliatelle with morels ($19) is topped with piave, a hard parmigiano-type cheese from northern Italy that has slightly sweeter notes. The piave is crisped into a thin cracker and dusted with mushroom “soil.” The aroma hits the nose the second the plate hits the table. It’s heady, earthy and rich, and we finish it to the last crumb.
Seared sablefish ($38) is beautifully prepared, simple and succulent. The onion nage – a vegan “soup” that is poured at the table – is a little bland, but the fermented vegetables that top the covering dome of puffed tapioca provide some sharp, bright notes.
Laguna is a chef who’s not afraid to experiment on the fly. A buratta, plum and heirloom tomato salad ($18) came one night with the buratta served as a “sorbet.” It’s an unusual presentation, but has merit. His proteins are masterful. A saddle of lamb, crusted in coffee and herbs, is fork-tender and juicy without being undercooked.
Botanist is more than just about the high-end food and drink. It’s an immersive experience that is setting a new bar for elevated dining in Vancouver.
