Fine dining in Vancouver died a painful death in the post-2008 scene. Places like Lumière and Voya couldn’t survive the onslaught of tight wallets and “casual-upscale” dining options. Hawksworth at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia brought back the concept to some degree, but one room does not a trend make.
With the opening of Boulevard at The Sutton Place Hotel, it looks like fine dining is back on the menu, albeit in a slightly more light-hearted manner.
The room is a study in black and white, but forget the starched linen tablecloths; it’s all about smooth lines and sleek style. Polished marble and granite, dark wood and good music lend themselves to a well-planned experience. Seats are stylish but comfortable (never underestimate the power of a bad chair to drive away customers).
It’s the people who make the production sing, however. Steve Edwards, a noted sommelier with impeccable taste and class who formerly worked at Araxi, CinCin, Cibo, and Bearfoot Bistro, is director of operations, and runs a smooth, happy ship. Sailing with him is an all-star cast that includes maître d’ Brian Hopkins (West, CinCin, Araxi), famed barman Justin Taylor (Yew), wine director Lisa Haley (Burdock & Co.), “Oyster Bob” Skinner (Joe Fortes), and last, but certainly not least, executive chef Alex Chen (Wedgewood, Beverly Hills Hotel, Four Seasons Chicago).
Chen has put together his own team for the back of house, and front and centre is chef de cuisine Roger Ma (Fifty Two 80, Daniel Boulud). The two have worked together before, and it shows in the fact that even when Chen is away, the meal suffers nothing by his absence. While a couple earlier visits were a bit disappointing, the last few weeks have seen the kitchen team come into their own, and the front of house has been excellent from the start.
As for the food, it runs the line between contemporary and comfort. Mains are priced a bit steep here, with most dishes between $25-$39 (the signature burger is $18). Sides and starters are more reasonable.
Delectable, stuffed squid ($16), served a la plancha, comes with chorizo and piquillo pepper ketchup. Caramelized jumbo scallops ($35) were slightly overcooked one night, but the artichoke barigoule they sat in was heady, delightfully studded with green olives, oven-dried tomatoes and licked with citrus.
The standout dish was unquestionably the chicken wings ($14). Forget all other wings, everywhere. These are deep-fried to a crisp – crunchy shell ensconcing plump, moist meat – then coated in a caramelized fish sauce. Don’t worry about how it sounds, just order and eat. Sambal chili and some pickles are nice touches, but it’s the wings that will create addiction. Pair with one of Taylor’s excellent cocktails (I recommend the English Bay), and it takes after-work drinks to a whole new level.
Do also leave some room for dessert. Pastry chef Jason Pitschke has concocted a wicked good red velvet cake with pecan and coconut cream, and a cream cheese mousse. It’s worth the $11.50 you might wince over and rich enough for two to share.
Vancouver is a terminally casual city, so perhaps it’s too early to ring the bells for a fine dining renaissance, but Boulevard has advanced the line in style and shows promise of good things to come.
Open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late night.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★★1/2
Service: ★★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★★
Overall: ★★★★1/2
