Sitting on the Kitsilano beach, watching the sun tuck behind the forested mountain in the near distance, not everyone knows that they have Bowen Island to thank for helping create one of the most beautiful sunset views.
One hundred years ago, if you worked at Woodwards, the Hudson Bay Company or any of the other large retailers in Vancouver, you would be yearning for the next time you could follow the sun across Howe Sound to Bowen Island.
In its heyday, before the Lions Gate Bridge opened up the north shore to travellers, steamships brought passengers by the thousands to Bowen, the happy isle. Companies and unions would treat workers to a carefree picnic on its shores or, if you were lucky, youd stay in one of the dozens of tourists cabins that dotted the island.
Then came automobiles, a war, and the hippies. Artists, retirees, university professors and commuters with young families settled in next, revelling in the small-town atmosphere while appreciating such close proximity to Vancouver. Today the island is home to about 3,500 souls. Anyone who thinks of Bowen as a summer enclave of rich West Vancouverites needs to visit the island again.
The ferry ride: As soon as you turn off Hwy 99 to Horseshoe Bay, youre treated to a spectacular view of harbour and mountains. Walk-on traffic is recommended but if you drive on, make sure you dont stay in your car for the 20-minute journey. The passenger deck is Bowens equivalent of a community centre while the outdoor observation deck lets you pretend youre having a Celine Dion/Titanic moment. If you plan to visit frequently, get the BC Ferries experience card (minimum purchase $95) for discounted fares. (BCFerries.com)
USSC Marina: One of the most beautiful marinas along the coast, its state-of-the-art floating clubhouse, chandlery filled with nautically inspired gifts and clothing, and rental cabins around the garden make it a popular destination for Vancouver sailors and those who wander its docks dream of sailing one day. (USSC.ca)
Summer Market: Every Saturday and Sunday, local craftspeople, furniture makers, bakers and artists gather on the green beside USSC from 10am to 4pm.
Nature Encounters: When Carol Petersen arranges tours to Africa, she doesnt just bring home some amazing photos. She works with local villages to import their handiwork and sell them in a quaint cottage retail space. (NatureEncounterTours.com) She shares space with Connie Wright, whose hand-knit clothing makes you yearn for winter.
Snug Café: In a small cabin just steps from the ferry you can have the best breakfast in the Lower Mainland. Eggs snuggled in Snugwich or served with royale flair with cream and smoked salmon never tasted so good. Owners Piers and Joan Hayes are very much a part of the cafés endearing charm, making both long-time residents and visitors feel at home. Theres now Friday night jazz with some of the islands professional musicians.
Davies Orchard: A little oasis of the islands former glory as a tourist destination, the original Union Steamship cottages take you back in time. Tour a cabin or visit the pioneer garden. (BowenHeritage.com)
Tuscany Pizza & Mediterranean Cuisine: Dine al fresco in the beautiful garden patio or cozy up inside near the wood-fire oven. Extensive pizza artigiana menu (including gluten free) is complemented by seafood and pasta choices. Chef Christophe Langlois and his wife also own Artisan Eats (see Artisan Square), where you can buy a delicious array of homemade breads, pastries and salads. (TuscanyPizza.com)
Crippen Park: walk or bike along a forest trail, have a picnic at Killarney Lake, or let your dog loose in The Meadows (even though youre not really supposed to. This is one of the most dog-friendly places on earth.) The 12 km walking/5 km biking trail network starts at the ferry and is relatively flat and accessible. (MetroVancouver.org)
Mount Gardner: Bowens equivalent of Grouse Grind. From the 719-m peak the view takes in downtown Vancouver, the Coastal Mountains and Sunshine Coast. (VancouverTrails.com)
Bowen Island Museum: Filled with artifacts and displays that herald the islands rich past. (BowenHistory.ca)
Artisan Square: Art galleries, gift shop, flower shop, clothing stores, a jewellery store, spa and fitness studio are steps away from each other (once you climb the hill.) Enjoy the gorgeous view from Artisan Eats, owned by the same couple who own Tuscany.
Cocoa West: Not only is Joanne Mogridge one of the best chocolatiers, but she sources the best in organic ingredients for her handmade chocolates. The store in Artisan Square is also the perfect place for a gelato.
Bowen Island Golf Course: As the Nanaimo ferry passes before you, and Vancouvers condo towers hover on the horizon, enjoy some of the most spectacular views as you tee up your best shots on this nine-hole, year-round rainforest course. A new clubhouse is a great place to grab a bite to eat while you critique your game. (BowenGolf.com)
Kayak rentals: Explore the coastline on your own or sign up for a guided tour; located at Bowen Island Marina (next to Nancys Tacos.) (BowenIslandKayaking.com)
Drop by the tourist information centre in the little blue cottage a few steps away from the ferry wharf for maps, information and a mini-gallery and gift shop. Its open seven days a week from 9:30am to 4:30pm. Other websites of interest: BowenChamber.com; AldergroveFarm.com; RivendellRetreat.org; BIAC.ca (Bowen Island Arts Council including gallery)
