I’m a summer baby (along with just about everyone else in my family). From the end of June until Labour Day, the season is strung together by one celebration after another. Birthdays, weddings, Canada Day, BC Day and all the other parties, parades and festivals make for an endless supply of revelry.
This means I am stocking up on bubbles. Let me be clear; sparkling wine should never be restricted to special occasions only. However, in my books it is absolutely essential at every celebration.
The world of sparkling is vast. What unifies them all is simply those lovely bubbles. How those bubbles came to be can be quite different and the method of production plays a big role in quality, flavours, complexity and price point. Champagne and Prosecco for example are not made equal but both have their place. And there’s plenty to explore beyond these (though nothing beats good Champagne for the splurge).
As much as bubbles make me weak at the knees, a sparkling wine has to offer than just effervescence. I like a wine with personality. And it also has to refresh. Here are some that deliver on both fronts.
n/v Anna de Codornìu, Brut Cava DO • Spain • $15.99
When the party draws a crowd and the budget is stretched, Cava is my staple. This is Spain’s designation for quality sparkling wine and I find the category as a whole represents terrific value for money. The Anna de Codornìu blends Chardonnay with more traditional Cava grape varieties (Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada) for tasty results. Light on its feet with lemon curd, pear and apple blossom along with a salty tang.
2014 Marchesi di Grésy, ‘La Serra’ • Moscato d’Asti DOCG, Italy • 375ml $18-20*
Sometimes the festivities start in the morning. Certainly on my special day they do. A specialty from the region of Piedmont, Moscato’Asti is the ultimate breakfast bubble. Sweet, frothy, delightfully grapey and only five per cent alcohol, it’s a gentle way to ease into the celebrations.
n/v Caves de Lugny • Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé AOC, France • $23-26*
Not all sparkling can be Champagne but in France there are plenty of high quality examples using the same method as this famous region. Look for the word Crémant. Caves de Lugny comes from Burgundy and offers fine persistent bubbles that carry gorgeous flavour of delicate red summer berries.
2012 Tantalus, Old Vines Riesling Natural Brut • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $34.70 winery direct
Inevitably the summer will include some patriotic toasting so why not go with a local fizz? BC is making some darn good sparkling and Tantalus demonstrates how adept Riesling is at taking on bubbles. Characterful and zesty with lots of key lime pie and a wisp of smoke, it’s firmly dry and extremely vibrant.
2005 Taittinger, Comtes de Champagnes, Blanc de Blancs Brut • Champagne AOC, France • $199.99
I’m going big here… Champagne starts at $50/bottle plus and luxury cuvées like this one are well into three digits. However, when money is no object, this Champagne certainly rises to the (special) occasion – like celebrating a decade of marriage. Rich yet racy with notes of preserved lemon, shortbread, chalk and a subtle toastiness, it is the epitome of elegance. The ultimate gift if you truly want to spoil someone. PS. My birthday is July 8th.
*Private wine stores only. All other wines available at BC Liquor Stores. All prices are exclusive of taxes.
