Warning: The subject matter of this article pertains to the release of 2012 Bordeaux vintage. As such, the wines recommended are not inexpensive.
Every year in early autumn, BC Liquor Stores releases the latest vintage from Bordeaux. This renowned French region is a benchmark for ultra-premium cellar-worthy reds featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Avid collectors in particular clamour for the highest rated wines and most illustrious châteaux.
Bordeaux is characterized by vintage variation though. This means the character and quality of the wines are affected by the vagaries of weather. In 2012, growers were presented with a number of challenges to achieving fully ripe grapes. In order to make good wine, producers needed to make a severe selection, which comes at a cost. The successes are honest expressions of the year; ripe with a just hint of green lending an inviting freshness.
So are the wines worth lining up for? If you want a shot at the best, then you might have to. Barbara Philip, Master of Wine and Category Manager for the Wines of Europe at BC Liquor Stores made her own selection and brought in about 50 per cent less than usual.
“It appears demand will far outweigh supply for the 2012s at the release and I expect everything to sell through quickly,” she said.
Triple-figure price tags are common in the world of Bordeaux. Stellar years like 2009 and 2010 offer fantastic wines at all price points including plenty in the sub-$50 category. In more challenging vintages such as 2012, deals are more difficult to find. I combed through the double-digits and did come up with a few standouts (along with one more excessive splurge).
For those die-hard Bordeaux fans, see you early morning on Saturday, Oct. 3 at selected BC Liquor Stores.
2012 Haut-Haut Bergey Blanc • Pessac-Léognan AOC, France • $60
While the release focuses on the reds, this is a great opportunity to pick up some first-rate dry whites. These oft-unsung gems of Bordeaux represent some of the greatest triumphs of 2012. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc with Sémillon and aged in oak for added complexity, the Haut-Bergey exudes lemon curd, honeysuckle, savoury herbs and fleshy nectarine. A cellar-worthy white.
2012 Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker • Margaux AOC, France • $65
A very pleasant surprise for me, this Margaux boasts intriguing exotic aromas, ripe and alluring cassis notes and good fruit concentration. It definitely has short-term cellaring potential of five to seven years.
2012 Château La Dominique • Saint-Émilion AOC, France • $68
La Dominique is a polished and supple Merlot-dominated beauty. It’s difficult not to be seduced by the smoky oak, spiced red plum and boysenberry favours along with the mouth caressing tannin. A good eight to 10 years ahead of it, but drinking well now.
2012 Domaine de Chevalier • Pessac-Léognan AOC, France • $90
Pure and precise aromas of blackcurrant, mineral and earth press all of my Bordeaux buttons. Medium-weight, elegant and light on its feet. A touch of green mint on the finish gives a lovely lift. It should age beautifully for at least a decade or so.
2012 Château Léoville-Barton • Saint-Julien AOC, France • $138
This is my ‘money no object’/’someone else is buying’ pick. And believe me, I could have been way more greedy ($2,800 for Château Pétrus, anyone?) Here Cabernet Sauvignon dominates noticeably. Firm but ripe tannin frame layers of coffee, blackberry and cedar. You could put this away for a couple of decades.
Prices exclusive of taxes. All wines available at BC Liquor Stores.
