Stay true to your roots, right? Between frequent trips abroad and the recent Aussie invasion at the Vancouver International Wine Fest, I felt like I was losing touch with BC.
Once upon a time it was easy to keep up with our local industry. Now with almost 300 wineries, new labels coming out all the time and the evolution of established producers, it’s a constantly moving target.
So, before flying off to Italy again (don’t hate me), I made sure to check in with the home team. I found plenty of sips to keep me going until the preview of the 2014 vintage later this spring.
All the following wines can be found at VQA and private wine stores or purchased direct from the winery.
Haywire, Pink Bub • Okanagan Valley, BC, VQA • $25-28
I’m a big fan of bubbly and a believer in sparkling wine in BC. This effervescent rosé brings together Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, classic grapes varieties used for sparkling wine production that are well represented in our local soil. It gets its delicious bubbles from a second fermentation in bottle. And I love the crown cap closure; it’s like opening a giant bottle of beer. Red apple skin, lemon and strawberry blossom finishing with pleasant bitter pith. There’s a whole whack of acidity here to wake up palate. I’m dreaming of prawn ceviche.
2013 Clos du Soleil, Middle Bench Pinot Blanc • Similkameen Valley, BC, VQA • $20-23
While Pinot Blanc can on the neutral side, this example achieves winemaker Mike Clark’s goal of emphasizing the aromatics. Clark also managed to coax admirable fruit concentration out of this workhorse grape. Tantalizing notes of honeydew melon, peach and honeysuckle are countered by a bit sage and smokiness. It possesses enough weight and character to stand up to pork roast.
2012 Baillie-Grohman, Estate Pinot Noir • Creston, BC, VQA • $25-28
Yes, wine is now being made in the Kootenays with Creston boasting British Columbia’s most easterly vineyards. Wineries are scarce (only three) but Baillie-Grohman is bringing attention to the area, particularly with Pinot Noir. Kiwi winemaker Dan Barker demonstrates a gentle touch with this notoriously capricious grape. His judicious use of oak allows the fruit to shine. Juicy and crunchy with bright Bing cherry notes, fine tannin and a silky texture, it begs for salmon.
2011 Seven Stones, Row 128 Merlot • Similkameen Valley, BC, VQA • $30-34
Though it produces far less wine than the adjacent Okanagan Valley, the Similkameen shouldn’t be overlooked. There are plenty of gems from this dramatic and diverse region. Seven Stones has a strong leaning toward Bordeaux varieties. Here the spotlight is on Merlot, which exudes black currant, cocoa and leather with some grilled herbs and dark plums. It sports fairly firm dry tannin that a steak would sort out.
2012 Laughing Stock, Syrah • Okanagan Valley, BC • $36-40
Laughing Stock has gained a solid following for wines that live up to their clever packaging. Despite over a decade under their belt, they are by no means sitting on their laurels. It was refreshing to hear winemaker and owner David Enns speak about his recent trip to the Rhône Valley where he drew new inspiration for his already laudable Syrah. Co-fermented with bit of Viognier, it’s an expressive number with lush blackberry, briary fruit, some subtle toast and pretty floral notes poking through. Bring on the venison! (Sold out at the winery but still available at wine stores.)
