Roughly in the centre of Italy, the region of Emilia-Romagna is surely the country’s stomach. This is saying a lot in food-centric Italy. It's ground zero for Italian classics with a hit list including prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar and spaghetti Bolognese. The latter is the name foreigners assigned this slow-cooked tomato and meat sauce. Locally, it’s simply called ragùand more likely served with tagliatelle. Stuffed pasta is equally typical and a comforting bowl of hand-made tortellini in brodo (broth) greeted me after the long journey to Bologna.
The fascinating city of Bologna is the region's capital and it positively buzzes. Locals and tourists crowd into bars, spilling outside onto pedestrian streets (even in October) to enjoy copious platters of cheese and charcuterie. The most enthusiastic eaters then move onto trattorias to further indulge in the area's hearty and rich fare.
And of course, everyone is drinking wine. Quite frankly, it’s necessary in order to digest the robust cuisine. Emilia-Romagna produces plenty of wine but honestly, this isn't what it’s famous for. The region's most familiar wine reference is Lambrusco. A complex and fascinating family of grapes, one of the many Lambruscos plays the starring role in a variety of wines. Made as a sparkling red, Lambrusco may be dry or off-dry. It might be difficult to wrap your head around fizzy red but believe me, those bubbles help cleanse the palate and push down every bite.
Beyond sparkling, lots of weird and wonderful still wines exist but barely ever make it outside of the zone. The exception is Sangiovese. Italy's most planted grape, Sangiovese is more renowned in neighbouring Tuscany where it is responsible for fine wines like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. Emilia-Romagna proposes its own versions with their own flair and usually boasting affordable prices.
Alas, offerings from Emilia-Romagna are limited in British Columbia. Thankfully the Lambrusco selection is growing with some positively delicious examples gracing our shelves. Just a reminder to serve them chilled.
Casolari, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC Frizzante Secco • Emilia-Romagna, Italy • $13.99, BC Liquor Stores
Frothy and tangy with lots of crunchy red berries, balsam and floral notes. A modest 11 per cent alcohol makes it very chuggable. Serve it with a regional assortment of meat like mortadella and coppa as well as cheeses such as grana padano, provolone and pecorino.
Cleto Chiarli, 'Vecchia Modena' Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC • Emilia-Romagna, Italy • $33-35, private wine stores
As with the previous recommendation, this is crafted from the Lambrusco di Sorbara grape; the lightest and most scented of Lambruscos. A step up in complexity (and price), it sports a similarly pale colour and is also made dry. Sour red cherry, rhubarb and red currants coupled with appetite-stimulating acidity make it a surprisingly tasty match with tortellini in chicken broth.
Rinaldini, 'Vecchio Moro' Lambrusco dell'Emilia IGT • Emilia-Romagna, Italy • $33-35, private wine stores
If you like your wine with lots of colour, this deep purple, tooth-staining Lambrusco is sure to please. Made from Lambrusco Grasparossa, the darkest of the Lambruscos, it’s dry with black plum, blueberry, licorice and peppery nuances. Excellent quality and a unique way to wash down lasagne.
2011 Poderi dal Nespoli, ‘Il Nespoli’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva DOC • Emilia-Romagna, Italy • $20.79, BC Liquor Stores
I’ve recommended this wine in the past but it’s really the only Sangiovese from Emilia-Romagna that’s widely available here. Very similar to a Chianti, though slightly darker and richer than most, it’s perfect for ravioli stuffed with spinach or a classic ragù sauce.
• Prices exclusive of taxes.
