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By the Bottle: L’heure de l’apéritif

I’m headed back to Europe. Again. I can assure you; it never gets old. I love touring vineyards, discovering specific regional cuisines and just walking around old towns checking out historical monuments and buildings.
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I’m headed back to Europe. Again. I can assure you; it never gets old. I love touring vineyards, discovering specific regional cuisines and just walking around old towns checking out historical monuments and buildings. But what I look forward to most is the daily ritual of the apéritif. 

In France, l’heure de l’apértif (or l’apéro as it is known for short) is that time post-work and pre-dinner when friends get together for a drink. The Italians call it l’aperitivo and you can rest assured that the Spaniards and Portuguese have the same custom, too. The meeting point is usually a buzzing outdoor café in the central square or piazza.

Each country has its classic tipples but the over-arching philosophy is the same. It should rouse an appetite (and promote lively conversation). Bitterness is a recurring element though this is usually countered by some sweetness. It doesn’t take long to acquire a taste. Alternatively, the local wine (especially if it sparkles) works just fine. Along with the drinks, a few simple snacks like chips or nuts serve to stave off the building hunger and prolong the magical timeless moment.

If the apéritif is not part of your tradition yet, now is the time to adopt it. As the days get longer, we are less inclined to race home after work. Better weather (fingers always crossed) encourages gathering outside provided you can find a patio. It’s not too early in the season to start. Get into the habit now so the tradition is well established come summertime.

 

Lillet • France • $16.49, BC Liquor Stores

Lillet was my initiation to the apéritif ritual. I had no idea what it was but I felt so sophisticated drinking it. I have since learned that it’s based on Semillon from the region of Bordeaux, which is blended with a variety of orange peel liqueurs then aged in oak vats. I still feel chic whenever I have it. And that balance of sweet and bitter makes me hungry every time.

 

Gonzalez Byass, Tio Pepe Fino • Sherry DO, Spain • $21.99, BC Liquor Stores

This dry fino sherry is surely the most ubiquitous pour in bars across Spain. I for one have never turned down a glass. With unique favours and aromas of tangy green apple, rising bread and blanched almonds, it’s just so perfect while nibbling on mixed olives and nuts.

 

Taylor Fladgate, Fine White Port • Portugal $19.49, BC Liquor Stores

White port sits in the shadows of the more famous tawny and ruby style ports. All are typically offered after a meal to satisfy a sweet tooth. However, the loveliest pre-dinner sip I enjoyed in Portugal was a spritz of equal parts white port and tonic served over ice. Muddle mint leaves add refreshment.

 

2011 Revì, Dosaggio Zero • Trento DOC, Italy $38.99, BC Liquor Stores

In my ongoing efforts to endorse the vast world of Italian bubble beyond Prosecco, I propose an elegant traditional method sparkling wine from Trento DOC. Dosaggio Zero means that no sugar has been added so you can expect a very dry mouthful. Racy yet rich, the Revì is well suited to a celebratory aperitivo gathering. For some levity, serve with salty potato chips.

 

Campari, Bitter • Italy • $21.99, BC Liquor Stores

Campari is an apéritif-style liqueur made with a number of bittering ingredients like oranges and rhubarb. Typically served long with soda, its primary function is to stimulate the appetite. With unparalleled revitalizing powers, it’s my go-to when in Italy and an equally common indulgence in Vancouver.

• Prices exclusive of taxes.

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