I might be going out on a limb here. Merlot is British Columbia's most planted grape, Pinot Gris the most prolific of the whites and Pinot Noir our media darling (deservedly so). However, I'm proposing to toast BC Day, and our local wine industry, with Syrah.
I'm a huge Syrah fan in general. Rather that biasing me toward backyard examples, this actually makes me extra critical of them. There are certain things I want out of Syrah. I am a sucker for telltale intriguing aromas that range from floral to peppery and sometimes even gamey. I also go weak at the knees for seductive dark fruit countered by a savoury element and assertive structure. I can honestly say that there is an ever-increasing number of offerings from BC that hit the mark.
As good as the wines are, though, Syrah will never dominate our vineyards. The vine is cold sensitive and has struggled to survive in our frigid winters. During the growing season, it also needs lots of warmth and sunshine. For this reason, it is really only viable in the southern reaches of the Okanagan Valley and the neighbouring Similkameen. I applaud the wineries that champion Syrah and work to coax the best out of it in our unique climate.
I love drinking Syrah in the summer. It's perfect for a barbeque, especially if sausages or lamb are on the grill. It's equally appropriately with a warming braise and game meat when the temperatures drop. But let's not think about that at the moment. For now, cheers to BC, our Syrah and summertime.
2015 Sandhill, Estate Syrah, Okanagan Valley, BC VQA $18.99 BC Liquor Stores
A well-priced Syrah staple, Sandhill's is medium-bodied, soft and easy to drink with a dusting of cocoa, a pinch of clove along with some toast and black plum.
2015 Road 13, Syrah, British Columbia VQA $25-29 Kitsilano Wine Cellars, Liberty Wine Merchants
A blend of fruit coming from the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. Distinct black peppercorn and black currant greet the nose. Ripe but not jammy with floral and meaty underpinnings that speak clearly of Syrah.
2013 Nichol Vineyard, "Old Vines' Syrah, Naramata Bench $35 Everything Wine, Legacy Liquor, New District, Kitsilano Wine Cellars
'Old vines' is an undefined term in the wine world. Here it refers to vines that were established approximately 27 years ago, making them the oldest Syrah plantings in Canada. Intense aromas of dried sage, spice and boysenberry follow through on the juicy and savoury palate. This has become a reference for Syrah in BC.
2015 Laughing Stock, Syrah, Okanagan Valley BC VQA $36 winery direct (2014 $42-45 at Everything Wine, New District, Kitsilano Wine Cellars)
Co-fermented with 3% Viognier, a practice associated with the Northern Rhône Valley where Syrah is king. Lifted violet, apricot, cherry and exotic spice notes make for an immediately charming red. Full and plush with seamlessly integrated oak, velvety texture and revitalizing acidity, it clearly translates Laughing Stock's fondness and respect for Syrah and could be their best vintage yet.
2014 Le Vieux Pin 'Equinoxe' Syrah, Okanagan Valley, BC $80 winery direct
If you are going to spend big bucks on a BC red, this is the one I'd choose. Whiffs of vanilla are followed by blackberry and prune cake. The palate is full, rich and seductive with blueberries, dark wild cherries and chocolate juxtaposed by black olive and game nuances. Finessed tannin lead to a long and layered finish.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
