I have a weakness and Champagne is its name. I mean the real stuff, the fizz that hails from the cool northeast corner of France.
I love bubbles in general but for me, there is simply nothing like Champagne. Blessed with a unique chalky soil and a marginal climate that coaxes just enough ripeness from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the region makes sparkling its top priority. Champagne is credited with perfecting the onerous technique of achieving an unparalleled fineness of bubble in the very same bottle you drink from.
Yeah, I’ve drunk the Champagne Kool-Aid. And I fully intend to keep on slurping it back. The only thing that stops me from drowning in it is the price. Starting at around $50, it’s not an everyday proposition. But I don’t wait around just for the classic occasions to indulge in a bottle. I’ve become quite adept at finding excuses to crack a bottle. The holiday season in particular gives me plenty of opportunity to indulge. I’ll deal with my bank account in the New Year.
The thing about Champagne is that the big houses put a lot into marketing and their efforts have succeeded. Brand loyalty is strong. My duty is to remain unbiased, so I make an effort to try them all. I rounded up some of my favourite non-vintages for those moments when you need to give in. This is the result of serious study.
n/v Charles de Cazanove, Brut Rosé • Champagne AOC, France • $52.99, BC Liquor Stores
A stellar surprise in a recent blind tasting (I know, my job sucks). The palest of pretty pink, it offers up seductive scents of freshly baked red berry scone. Ripe but not heavy with a charming creamy mousse, this is really great value in the world of Champagne.
n/v Drappier, Brut Nature • Champagne AOC, France • $57.36, BC Liquor Stores
Brut Nature means that little to no sugar has been added. The Drappier is bone dry with toast, red currant and appetizing minerality. The lovely long ponderous finish keeps me from chugging it too quickly.
n/v Pol Roger, Cuvée de Réserve Brut • Champagne AOC, France • $60.99, BC Liquor Stores
In that same blind tasting mentioned above, the Pol Roger shone just as it always does. Really showing the elegance that Chardonnay can bring to the blend (with Pinot Noir and Meunier), it’s chalky and fresh, with green apple, lemon and a subtly biscuity persistence.
n/v H. Billiot Fils, Brut Réserve • Champagne AOC, France • $70−75,private wine stores
This is what is referred to as a “grower”Champagne. It’s crafted solely from grapes grown on the mere five hectares that Billiot owns (as opposed being made from purchased grapes). Succulent wild strawberries are lifted to heavenly heights by effortlessly exuberant bubbles.
n/v Bollinger, Special Cuvée Brut • Champagne AOC, France • $69.99 BC Liquor Stores
Full, rich and extraverted with poached pear and almond croissant notes. Bollinger makes a statement, just like that Bond guy who apparently drinks copious amounts of it.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
