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City Cellar: A quintet of Old World wines

Kurtis Kolt pours a glass of Saumur les Pouches' Chenin Blanc, Jadot's Chardonnay, Jean Francois Bourdy's Chardonnay, Frontaura's Crianza and Fina Vina's Nero D'Avola
City Cellar Old World wins

Over the past week I’ve had the opportunity to try a slew of wines I’d never had before, both at work and at play, that now sit close to my heart. The handful I’m sharing this week are all from the Old World, and lean ever-so-slightly towards the spendy side, at least for everyday wines. I’ll vouch for the fact, however, that these aren’t exactly everyday wines. While they’ll be enjoyable whenever you decide to crack ‘em, they each have their own unique qualities and character that give that extra special ‘something’ you won’t find elsewhere on store shelves.


Saumur les Pouches 2012 Chenin Blanc | Loire Valley, France | $20-25 | Private Wine Stores
The first sip of this ultra-dry Chenin Blanc is akin to the first bite of the freshest Anjou pear you can imagine with the slightest kiss of honey on the finish. The mix of Kimmeridgian soils, chock-full of fossilized marine life, and a good dose of gravel make each sip bright and ultra-crisp. Oysters anyone?


Jadot Couvent des Jacobins 2011 Chardonnay | Burgundy, France | $27.99 | BC Liquor Stores
While I’ve enjoyed previous vintages of Jadot’s hallmark Chardonnay, composed of grapes grown in the Côte d’Or and Mâconnais, I’m really digging this 2011 highwire act that extends a slightly-tense balance of oak, fresh citrus fruit and lively acidity. As it opens up and a straight-from-the-fridge chill dissipates, stone-fruit-like peaches and nectarines confidently step forward.


Jean Francois Bourdy 2008 Chardonnay | Cotes du Jura, France | $35-40 | Private Wine Stores
I had this by the glass at Mount Pleasant’s Burdock & Co ($14), and it’s certainly not your grandmother’s Chardonnay. This one’s very dry and akin to taking a mortar and pestle to a mix of limestone, walnuts, green grapes and lemon peel. Biodynamic, fermented with its own yeasts and no winemaker trickery involved. Some call it natural wine, I call it delicious.

Frontaura 2005 Crianza | Toro, Spain | $35-40 | Private Wine Stores
Oh, what a difference a little oak and age can make. After 13 months in a mix of French and American oak, the crew from Frontaura lie down this Tempranillo for a couple years so all of its strawberry-patch and fruity-tobacco goodness is swaddled in both spice and a rich, velvety texture. A ribbon of vanilla slips through the finish remarkably well.


Fina Vini 2012 Nero D’Avola | Sicily, Italy | $25-ish | Private Wine Stores
The indigenous-to-Sicily Nero D’Avola grape is always a favourite; this version offering textbook black olive and savoury herbs, showered with purple fruit and lightly cradled by soft oak. Sicilian-style pizza with tomato, onions, strong cheeses and herbs would go down a treat.

I’ve spotted most of these at Kitsilano Wine Cellar and Dundarave Wine Cellar, but if you’re having any issues tracking them down, hit me up via KurtisKolt.com or tweet me @KurtisKolt.

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