The wine world lost a global icon at the end of June this year: Australian Peter Lehmann passed away after kidney surgery at the age of 82. He was constantly referred to as the Baron of the Barossa; a nod to him being a pioneer of the region outside of Adelaide in South Australia. It was the place where he was born and it was the place where hed passed, making site-specific wines there for 66 years in between.
The pivotal moment in his career was when there had been a glut of wine grapes in the 1970s Barossa Valley, to the point that the government gave financial incentive to those willing to pull their vines. This really gutted Lehmann, who rightly saw the potential for the Valley, knowing its growing potential for wines that offered a sense of place.
While still chief winemaker at Saltram Wines, hed started his own winery (then dubbed Masterson Barossa Vineyards) so he could purchase grapes, providing growers another option. He really was a savior of sorts, as the Barossa has some of the oldest continuously producing vineyards in the world with several massive, gnarled vines dating back to the mid-1800s. With the areas proximity to the Southern Ocean, that diurnal temperature range helps grapes retain good acidity while the sun does its thing, getting them nice and ripe.
The wines hed crafted, and the wines Peter Lehmann Wines produce to this day, offer a true reflection of their vineyards with minimal intervention in the winery, along with honest varietal character. Whether its a Shiraz offering peppery purple fruit or a Riesling that glistens with citrusy minerality, theyre always well made and true.
There may be some who balk at Australian wines in that $13-15 price range, assuming theyre just going to be sweet and soulless fruit-bombs akin to many of the critter wines that dominated the market a few years back. Take my word that this assumption would be mistaken, and youd be doing yourself a disservice by not giving these wines a second glance particularly because their price-points offer excellent value.
Snag one (or both) of these bottles and raise a glass to Peter Lehmann, an icon who helped put a fantastic region on the map.
Peter Lehmann 2011 Weighbridge Chardonnay | $12.99 | BC Liquor Stores
Green apple and melon aromas float out of the glass while the palate has some really cool intricacies; starfruit, green grape and Asian pear. Medium-bodied with good acidity through the perfumed, lemony finish; theres enough weight and viscosity for the wine to ably handle a variety of full-flavoured dishes, but Im thinking roast chicken, creamy pastas or perhaps a garlicky Caesar salad.
Peter Lehmann 2011 Weighbridge Shiraz | $14.99 | BC Liquor Stores
As the sun disappears behind the mountains and temperatures cool a little, swaddle yourself in this Shiraz chock-full of dark berry fruit, freshly carved roast beef, fruity tobacco and some lovely, soft and peppery tannins. Big red meats or stews would do just fine.
As always, if youre having trouble tracking something down, find me via KurtisKolt.com or Tweet me @KurtisKolt
