Just because something is popular doesnt mean its good. Nickelback, anyone?
While Pinot Gris, or Pinot Grigio to some, dominates liquor store shelves and vineyards around the world, it often gets dismissed as pedestrian or boring.
Why is it that British Columbias most-planted white grape gets such a bad rap? Well, part of its downfall is what makes it such a viable grape to grow.
The grape is a workhorse, both in the vineyard and in the glass. Its heartiness on vines makes it adaptable to cool climates and short seasons, resulting in a high-acid, clean and citrusy style, but its comfortable hanging out on those vines later in the season or in warmer regions, ending up more stone-fruit driven, viscous and weighty.
Want to age it in oak? Sure, the grape takes it in well. No oak? No problem. Itll go in the bottle fresh, lively and clean.
It doesnt have the nobility or kinship to minerality as Riesling, nor does it have the elegance or purity of Chardonnay. While related to Pinot Noir, its often received amongst wine trade as that grapes under-achieving cousin.
It makes wines that are often correct, but for whatever reason, just dont tug at the heartstrings; its wines are good enough and totally approachable (hence consumer popularity), but rarely great.
I took a look at some global examples recently, to see if the indifference rang true. I included a couple Pinot Gris-heavy blends as well, since its often used as a blending grape to add weight or richness.
Santa Julia 2012 Pinot Grigio | Mendoza, Argentina | $13.99 | BC Liquor Stores
Baked green apple on the nose heads onward to yellow grapefruit and a touch of mango on the palate. Right in-between that high-acid citrus style and heavier versions. Decent, simple take on the grape, with extra points for the winerys sustainable take on farming.
Deinhard 2011 Pinot Grigio | Baden, Germany | $13.99 | BC Liquor Stores
Aromatics include apples, pears and even a speck of blue cheese, while lemonade and honey fill the mouth with a small smattering of white flowers. Crisp, quaffable and lively.
Sperling Vineyards 2012 Pinot Gris | Okanagan Valley, BC | $20-25 | Private Wine Stores
The mineral-rich soils of Kelowna aid in bringing a little complexity to the mix with Ann Sperlings stunner (yup, stunner) of a Pinot Gris. A basket of peaches, apricots, apple and quince are buoyed by good acidity and gleaming minerality. Theres a complexity here and I like it.
14 Hands 2011 Hot to Trot White Blend | Washington State, U.S.A. | $16.99 | BC Liquor Stores
This blend of Pinot Gris with Chardonnay and Semillon is an apple pie of a wine that could use a touch more acidity and a slightly longer finish, but would nonetheless handle spicy Asian takeout fairly well.
Laughing Stock Vineyards 2012 Blind Trust White | Okanagan Valley, BC | $25-30 | Winery Direct/Private Stores
A well-crafted blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Viognier brings orchard-fruit lushness and a light cradle of oak to lofty heights. A good example where in the right hands, and perhaps when other varieties join the table, this is a grape that can shine.
