I often get asked if I have a favourite wine. The answer, simply, is that I dont. Sure, there are grape varieties that I often find myself gravitating towards, such as Riesling, Pinot Noir and Gamay, but I usually move the goalposts of the query a bit, explaining that my favourite wines are the ones that share a sense of place.
Any wine suggesting hints of the soil it came from, or shares the long, sunny days or cool mountaintop air of its home, is the kind of wine that floats my boat. Terroir is the most common word that gets thrown around in these discussions, although to many that term isnt just about soil or climate, but can also refer to the style of wine and how it perfectly suits the cuisine of its region.
This week, a few recently-tried wines offer a good dose of terroir, or sense of place.
The regions limestone-heavy Kimmeridgian soil also harbours fossilized shellfish (hence oysters being a no-brainer with Chablis), bringing some chalky, lemony delight. I love the texture of this Chardonnay, a touch creamy and custardy, with some fresh-torn lemon balm and a bloom of honeysuckle on the finish.
The breezy, coastal region is as dreamy as it sounds, notable for bright and well-structured Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, Rosés and Pinot Noirs. When youre close to the ocean, youre probably eating a lot of fish, and this Chardonnay will certainly treat fish well. Theres some well-integrated oak, so if youre having salmon or halibut, you neednt worry if youre looking to step it up with soy or other bolder dressings. That soy would probably work well, as theres a hint of plum sauce on the nose, then papaya, mango and a sea of other tropical fruits on the palate. The pinch of baking spices on the finish ties it all together.
The cool-climate Yarra Valley in Victoria is turning a lot of heads for good reason lately. Breezes flowing up from Antarctica over the Great Southern Ocean moderate temperatures well, providing lovely acidity in the areas wines. This splendid Pinot has oodles of truffles on the nose, as perfumed cherries and raspberries swarm the palate. Fresh, clean and lovely.
Textbook Left Bank Bordeaux. Cabernet-heavy, a handful of gravel from the soil, pencil shavings on the nose, currants, violets, blackberries and more.
Textbook Right Bank Bordeaux. Merlot-dominated, a subtler texture from the finer clay soils, plus round, dark berry fruit and a strip of black licorice with a good grip of tannin.
Ive been able to find most of these at Legacy Liquor Stores in Vancouver or Everything Wine on the North Shore. Need a hand finding one of these wines? Drop me a line via KurtisKolt.com or Tweet me @KurtisKolt.
I will be exploring old-world terroir at Wildebeest on March 12; check out this week's Fresh Sheet for details!
