Whether jotting notes of wines I’m tasting in a Moleskine notebook or tapping away on my iPhone, I’ll usually star particular wines that I think would be good to share in this column. When I look to profile a certain grape variety, region, style or theme; they almost always slide into place. Too often though, there are a handful of starred bottles that I haven’t been able to pigeonhole into a particular theme, but they hover top of mind nonetheless. This week, a handful of those wines for you, with nothing in common except being delicious, charismatic, and dinner table-worthy.
Charles Smith 2012 Kung Fu Girl Riesling | Columbia Valley, Washington | $19.99 | BC Liquor Stores
Year in, year out, this is one of those wines you can always count on. Crisp and shimmering with candied lemon, grapefruit, pomelo and lemongrass. Don’t dismiss Charles Smith’s celebrated Riesling because the label’s so fun and cheery; that’s exactly the way Riesling’s supposed to be. This highwire act between dry and off-dry will have you grabbing for chopsticks and anything they traditionally tuck into.
Franc Arman 2012 ‘Jano’ Malvasia | Istria, Croatia | $30-ish | Private Wine Stores
So it turns out I’m a fan of Croatian Malvasia. Who knew? The aromatic white grape in question comes from mature vines quite close to the Adriatic Sea, a short commute away from more famous Italian takes on the variety. A smattering of fresh, citrusy herbs like lemon balm and sorrel envelope Mandarin oranges and Meyer lemons with a hint of an oily richness that will have it stand up to lighter curries and similar fare. Look for it at Kitsilano Wine Cellar or 16th Street Liquor Store in West Van.
Le Vieux Pin 2011 Syrah | South Okanagan, BC | $22/375ml or $45/750ml | Winery Direct/Private Stores
I’ve long been a fan of Syrah in British Columbia, often earthy and layered, chockablock with blackberries, currants, pepper and sage. Le Vieux Pin champions the variety quite well vintage after vintage, and I’m loving how this year they’ve done a slight departure from their usual big and muscular style, towards an elegant lift and a very civilized 12.7 per cent alcohol. The result still shares hallmark complexity and nuance, but now with a little more spring in its step.
Domaine Maby 2011 La Fermade Rouge | Lirac, Rhône, France | $27.97 | BC Liquor Stores
This blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grows a stone’s throw from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and bursts with violets, lilacs, currants and Concord grapes. There’s a slight dusting of dried thyme and just enough oak to lend backbone and overall structure. Smoked duck breast, charcuterie and sausage should fit alongside well.
Barda 2011 Pinot Noir | Patagonia, Argentina | $35-ish | Private Wine Stores
This Pinot Noir is grown way down in Patagonia, a breezy, cool climate region that treats the grape just fine. Put big, meaty Argentinian reds out of mind, because this little lady’s light, bright and lively, with silky plums, a bowl of cherries and a pinch of nutmeg to finish things off. Put in the fridge for ten minutes before opening and start to think about revving up that barbecue.
As always, if you’re having trouble tracking something down or just want to say hi, find me via KurtisKolt.com or Tweet me @KurtisKolt.
