It seems like it wasnt too long ago when I first started going to wine tastings in Vancouver. It was the late-nineties and a few colleagues and I were just breaking into the wine scene. We were hitting up what were stuffier tastings back then, the rigid elbows of much of the old guard often keeping us from approaching the table to get a splash in our glasses.
I like to think that with the growth of the wine community in Vancouver, much of it spawned by the very popular wine education programs offered by both the International Sommelier Guild and the Wine And Spirit Trust of London, theres a more open, warm and welcoming attitude around our circles.
I realized recently that while I still think of myself as one of the young guys in the industry (Im 37,) Ive become more of an in-between generation, noting the tide of young sommeliers and wine folks starting to make noise in the city. Yup, theyre a good few years younger than me, Im sure none of them are wearing tripped-out 1970s plaid and polka dot bell bottoms in their childhood photos, and I can pretty much guarantee that they can all shake off a hangover much better than I can these days.
At this weeks Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards (and after-parties,) I hit up four of our best young guns, the ones really starting to make waves, to ask them what they think you should be drinking this spring.
Jason Yamazaki is the assistant sommelier at Chambar, and didnt hesitate in telling me that the Droin 2010 Petit Chablis ($26.99, BCLDB) out of Burgundy has really been floatin his boat lately. Its a spot-on example of everything that a citrusy, mineral-driven Petit Chablis should be. Crack open a bottle next time youre having fish tacos.
Matthew Morgenstern, the wine director at Nicli Antica Pizzeria (which won Best Pizzeria) opted to go off the beaten path, sharing his admiration for Italys Terredora Campania 2010 Falanghina ($19.99, BCLDB) because its such a crisp, fresh, super-dry white and a great example of the lesser-known Campania appellation. Needless to say, itd be a great match for pizza.
Lisa Cooks eyes lit up immediately when I asked her for her recommendation while she was busy pouring and hosting at Joey Wine Bar where shes the cellar manager. Tantalus Riesling! she exclaimed, because its juicy, bright and full of amazing orchard fruit and is perfect on a sunny patio! The critically-acclaimed Okanagan wine is $23 at private wine stores and perfect with any seafood that ends up on your plate.
As the evening rolled on, many ended up at the days big winner, Hawksworth Restaurant (Restaurant Of The Year,) where Sommelier Jay Whiteley brought me into the wine room to pour a splash of Spains Elias Mora 2008 Toro. The $19.99 Tempranillo (available at BC Liquor Stores) is a great medium-bodied red, full of dark fruit and chocolate, and offers Such great value, and is so food-friendly and bright.
This fun quartet of wines are now on the top of my shopping list, and they should occupy that spot on yours. With these folks at the helm of the next wine wave, Vancouvers future looks pretty bright.
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