Duty called in Victoria Monday night, via a message sent my way from Alan Dickinson, proprietor and winemaker of British Columbia’s Synchromesh Wines.
He’d invited me to a winemaker’s dinner he was hosting at Little Jumbo, the still-fresh hotspot owned by Shawn Soole, the Aussie expat who’d made a name for himself in the local cocktail world at Clive’s Classic Lounge at Chateau Victoria.
In my few brief encounters with the Okanagan Falls winery, I’d been impressed with not only their tight focus on Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc (three of my favourite Okanagan varieties), but also for Dickinson’s clean and honest winemaking style. He employs minimal winery intervention so his wines can be bright and fresh, singing with local terroir.
Accompanied by my friend Treve Ring, a well-known wine writer/consultant in both Victoria and Vancouver circles, I was looking forward to enjoying the wines with Little Jumbo’s casual, small-plate fare — things like duck liver parfait with grilled bread. In its first seven months of being open, Little Jumbo has become the centre of the Victoria’s burgeoning wine scene. It’s become my go-to venue when I host BC Wine Institute seminars in town, and there are monthly VISA (Vancouver Island Sommelier Association) tastings and seminars for Island trade.
The crowd Monday night was composed of a who’s who of local wine folk, sommeliers, retail buyers, as well as the Turyk family, proprietors of the Island’s (quite good) Unsworth Vineyards. It was cool to see the clamouring of local industry there to support not only the wine hub that Little Jumbo has become, but also this ultra-boutique winery (just 1,200 cases made last year) that’s quite worthy of your attention.
Wines are available at prices listed below over at SynchromeshWines.ca, or for a few bucks more at private wine stores around town. Here are my three favourites:
Synchromesh 2013 Thorny Vines
Riesling | $18.90
A zippy, lemony testament to Naramata sunshine. The moderating effect of Lake Okanagan keeps the acidity both bright and in check, while the mere 9.2 per cent alcohol makes this quaffable dazzler good for constant top-ups.
Synchromesh 2013 Storm Haven
Riesling | $31.90
This version of Riesling comes from the Synchromesh home vineyard in Okanagan Falls and is a touch more delicate and floral than the Thorny Vines version. Perfumed peaches and honey mingle charmingly with hints of the property’s mineral-rich soil. There are echoes of Germany’s Mosel region in this bottle; that ain’t a bad thing at all. With this one chiming in at 8.2 per cent alcohol, you might have to steer yourself away from drinking it by the pint.
Synchromesh 2012 Pinot Noir | $24.90
This cohesive study of East Kelowna Pinot Noir is assembled from three different clones of the grape, fermented separately and kindly licked by a little neutral oak. Red plum, black cherry and purple beets abound. Serve with a hint of a chill and a whole lot of duck.
While column space concerns ensure brevity of recommendations, there isn’t anything in the Synchromesh portfolio I’d steer you away from. Do get to know them. Good stuff abounds.
Having trouble finding these wines or want to say hi? Drop me a line via KurtisKolt.com.
