A few days ago a friend asked me how I choose what wines to write about for my column. As I responded to the (quite valid) query, I realized that Ive never really shared my editorial philosophy in these pages. Without further ado, heres the method to my madness.
Those who regularly read this column may have taken note that my background is in restaurants. For almost 20 years, Id worked the Vancouver beat, from bussing at The Fish House In Stanley Park to serving at Cin Cin, eventually ending up managing and running the wine program at Salt Tasting Room. I always enjoyed it when various publications asked me to write a paragraph on a favourite wine for the season or similar recommendation. Eventually I started getting semi-regular writing gigs, which provided the launch pad for me to become a freelance wine guy a couple years back. Writing is now about a third of what I do, alongside consulting with restaurants on their wine programs, presenting seminars and events, a little competition judging and so on.
Since I didnt come of age in this realm through a traditional route, I like to take a slightly atypical, more casual approach to covering the wine scene. I also dont review wines that come my way, dealing with scores and such. With what I do, I have the opportunity to try plenty of wines in various arenas and have gotten to know a slew of cool wine folks. If Im enthused by something or someone, I like to share my enthusiasm.
That, really, is the crux my gig here. While, yes, I do get sent wine samples, theres no guarantee or obligation that Ill write about them. In fact, Ive found Im more likely to share wines that I come across on my own, whether a dinner party discovery, assessing potential new wines for a restaurant wine list, or when attending tastings around town. I do have friends in the industry, from winemakers to agents, but there are certainly no free rides. Will I share a particular wine of theirs if I love it and think you, the reader, will enjoy it? Totally. Will I do them favour for a wine I think not completely worth your while? Nope, never. Trust me, I have a good number of friends whove never seen a drop of ink from me. Id much rather just deal with that occasional awkwardness than jeopardize any trust you may have in my endorsements.
While unsolicited samples dont always make their way to these pages, that can be a worthy opportunity to try something new. As an example, I recently received a bottle of BCs NkMip 2010 Talon ($22.99, BC Liquor Stores), made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. Ive always been somewhat indifferent to the brand, usually finding their wines correct but rarely tugging at the heartstrings. Immediately following my first whirl of this wine, I began offering mea culpas to anyone whod listen. What a lovely, lovely bottle; well-balanced, complex, full of dark fruit, chocolate, pepper and gleaming minerality. The little bit of age ties everything together, making it sing. At 23 bucks, its an incredible value and Im so glad its now on my radar.
So while this is little behind-the-scenes peek into how this column works, its also evidence that not only will it help you find great wines, but it obviously does the same for me, too.
