In less than a decade, Vancouvers Chambar restaurant has become a legendary dining destination for chef Nico Schuermans Belgian-esque dishes, well-crafted cocktails, a fiercely intelligent beer list and award-winning wine program. After honing his skills everywhere from Cin Cin to Chicago, and spending the last four years working his way up the Chambar ladder, certified sommelier Jason Yamasaki has lept into role of wine director.
The Ladner-raised, energetic and enthusiastic 27-year-old has earned plenty of respect and admiration amongst his Vancouver colleagues over the last few years, so its widely assumed hes gonna knock it outta the park.
I sat down with him last week to catch up on his wine list philosophy, get him to recommend a bottle for readers, and pick up some tips for the thousands of people hitting the Vancouver International Wine Festival next week.
On the kind of wine programs that inspire him:
[Im a fan of] confident programs that are über-tight, with every label speaking to the ethos of its dining room and cuisine. Its not about just offering a list of wines. Every wine needs to be on there for a reason. Its about highlighting bottles, styles, and producers that jive with the philosophy of the restaurant and ultimately enhance the diners experience. Vijs, Boneta, LAbattoir, and Wildebeest are some of my favourite models of this philosophy around town. Also, the upcoming all-natural wine program at Andrea Carlsons Burdock & Co. on Main Street has me intrigued as to how it will be received.
On a BC wine that hes really been enjoying lately:
Naramatas Nichol Vineyards 2010 9 Mile Red ($25-28, NicholVineyard.com or private wine stores), a blend of St. Laurent and Pinot Noir, is a quirky little curiosity all about cinnamon heart spice and twang. A light and crunchy, bracingly-tart blend that offers Pinot-esque familiarity, driven by a shrill note of buzzy cranberry. Despite being a lighter wine, the texture and fruit really flirt with the addition of some mild spice. This blend loves coriander, fennel and caraway. A local gem worth a spot at a spring table.
On what you need to know when hitting the Vancouver International Wine Festivals International Festival Tasting Room on February 28, March 1 and 2:
The room is a time vortex. Arrive very early and use every second. No matter what, itll be over too soon.
As an addendum to early arrival, do your homework to visit all the heavy hitters first when the crowd is lightest. These recognizable icons will be at least three deep all night with those precious seconds ticking away.
If you wear fragrances, you will get the stink-eye. Deservedly so.
Eat beforehand. Feast beforehand. Your gut and lack of hangover will thank you.
Make a point to taste mostly wines, regions and producers you have never heard of before. Wine Fest comes but once a year, and this is your best chance to expand your wine horizons.
Spit everything. Except Champagne.
Good call on that last one! Congrats on the new gig Jason well see you around Wine Fest!
