Oddly enough, fall fashion has been on my mind lately. Nope, there arent any thoughts of swapping careers, but I cant help notice the thick-spined autumn issues of fashion magazines on newsstands everywhere touting the hottest looks for the cooler temperatures heading our way. It appears high collars and turtlenecks, oversized coats and big, bulky pockets will be everywhere. This winter, it seems as though well all be looking like Tom Hanks when he shrunk back down child-sized in Big.
The wine world is just as prone to the ebb, flow and cyclical nature of fashion. While there are many elements of style that are omnipresent no matter the season or year (Pinot Noir can be seen as the equivalent of wearing black or denim,) there are certainly grapes and wines more prone to fashions whims.
This week, three ultra-hot wine styles: Moscato, Lambrusco and Beaujolais, three wines that only recently would have been seen as dated or lame. Just as fashions scale can be broad, so too is the span of wine quality. In saying that, well leapfrog past frivolity this week into more serious versions; less ready-to-wear, more couture.
Orofino 2011 Moscato Frizzante | Similkameen Valley, BC | $25-30 | Private Wine Stores
The first sparkling wine from Orofino of B.C.s windswept Similkameen Valley is a blend of Muscats, with a splash each of Riesling and Pinot Gris. While bubbly Moscatos can often be sickly-sweet, this one has more of a peachy freshness with zesty mandarin orange and kaffir lime leaf. While its a fun tipple on its own, theres just enough of a honey note on the finish to compliment Thai or Indian flavours. You can also give this one a whirl by the glass at Granville Islands Edible Canada.
Rinaldini Vecchio Moro Lambrusco | Emilia-Romagna, Italy | $29-32 | Private Wine Stores
I beg of you to throw out any pre-conceived notions you may have of Lambrusco, because thinking of cream soda-esque sweetness that demolishes the teeth wont serve you well. For those who like to know the technical side, this Methodo Classico (i.e.- Champagne Method) bubble is made from 85 per cent Lambrusco Grasparossa, 10% Ancellotta, and five per cent Marzemino, many of them from 50-year-old vines. Its purple colour is so deep and dark that light hardly passes through the glass, but in that glass youll find a super-dry (almost dusty) wine thats all bitter chocolate, espresso and currants. All the seriousness of a big red, with the fun and cheer of a sparkler. Go for a grilled-rare steak with this one. Yes, really.
Château De Pierreux 09/10 Brouilly | Beaujolais, France | $19.99 | BC Liquor Stores
For a couple years now, people have been (rightfully) ignoring the bad reputation that sweet and simple Beaujoais Nouveau has given the region, moving right to the Gamays of Cru Beaujolais, specific sub-regions that offer a little more character than the more general Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages designations. This ones all blueberries, black cherry and cassis with a little twist of fresh-cracked pepper and fresh herbs. Both the 2009 and 2010 vintages are kickin around store shelves. If you have the option and, go 09 the vintage is sublime and youll get a little more balance. Salmon, poultry, duck or game would all match up well.
If you ever have trouble tracking down wines I recommend, dont hesitate to get a hold of me via KurtisKolt.com, Im more than happy to point you in the right direction. Happy quaffing!
