Vancouver’s cocktail culture has evolved over the last decade or so from the reign of the Cosmo and its ilk to the more thoughtful and artisanal imaginings of today’s menus. Bartenders have become more than just mixers of drinks. They have evolved to become mixologists, even chemists. They craft their own bitters, create syrups, infuse spirits, and barrel-age the end result. And, like the best musicians, they take requests.
The city today hosts some extraordinary talents in this field, one of the most prominent being David Wolowidnyk, bar manager at West Restaurant, and this year’s Best Bartender in our Best of the City Dining awards. Wolowidnyk is no stranger to winning awards. In 2012, he was named World’s Most Imaginative Bartender at Bombay Sapphire’s international competition, in addition to numerous other awards and honours over the years.
He has been responsible for some of the city’s most memorable cocktails, like West’s long-time favourite pumpkin pie, which is still on the fall menu today, almost 10 years later. “It’s evolved over the years, certainly,” says Wolowidnyk. “Part of what makes a great cocktail is knowing that you never perfect it and put it on the shelf, you can always experiment and present it with a new look and feel.”
Instead of crediting one specific source for his ideas, Wolowidnyk draws inspiration from his surroundings. “Everything I see, hear, taste, and touch is part of the constant downloading of information. And, every once in a while, there’s a spark between what you experienced in the past and what you experience in the moment, and that can spark something else that contributes to a new idea.
“Travel is also a big part of that,” he continues, “and it’s not always just about the cocktail. The level of service you encounter is a big part of the experience, and I love that after almost three decades in hospitality, there are still moments that blow my mind. It’s really that overall amazing experience that you remember, rather than just the cocktail, and our team tries to give that to every guest at West.”
Wolowidnyk also delights in creating cocktails based on a few descriptive words from guests. “One of my regulars once asked me to create a cocktail that was ‘cynical,’” he laughs. “So, I had to think, what would a cynical drink taste like? And, when time allows, I love to do that, to think if I was a cocktail, what would I be according to this definition?”
When asked about the latest trends on the cocktail scene and the rise in popularity of classic cocktails, Wolowidnyk replies, “Classic cocktails are precisely that because the formulas they were based on work. I don’t think this is a trend, so much as a better understanding of those formulas. An Old Fashioned, for instance, is about more than just the bourbon, it’s about the ‘accessories’ that highlight the spirit and those can be adjusted and played around with to create something new and exciting.”