Obviously, the main point of going to a restaurant is to eat. But for me, the wine list is just as important as the food. Throw in a bar or lounge for ambiance, and chances are I’ll be back often for a pre- or post-dinner glass when I’m not looking for the full meal deal. I consider these outings research, and many of my happiest wine discoveries happen on such occasions. Here are some of my favourites.
Hawksworth is my go-to downtown, especially when I’m craving a sneaky nip of bubble late afternoon – the house Champagne is the excellent NV Henriot Brut Souverain ($15 for a taster or $29 for a full flute). It’s easy to get stuck in once you start perusing what is surely one of Vancouver’s best lists. Wine director Bryant Mao and his equally stellar team of somms have all the basis covered. Want a crisp, refreshing white? Try the 2015 Pietradolce Carricante ($16/glass) from the lofty slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. Prefer a bold and gutsy red? Go for the 2013 Undurraga ‘Terrior Hunter’ Carignan ($17/glass) for a unique taste of Chile.
I was thrilled when Vij’s moved to Cambie Street. Along with being closer to my hood, the “holding lounge” is an additional bonus: I’m quite content to simply camp with some wine while the room rotates around me. Wine director Mike Bernardo has been running the program at Vij’s for as long as I can remember, but he hasn’t lost a drop of his enthusiasm. He’s also been a huge champion of the NV Medice Ermete ‘Concerto’ Lambrusco Reggiano DOC,which he pours for $12 a glass. This dry Italian sparkling red is modest in alcohol but bold in character, and a smart pairing with the cassava fries and pakoras that circulate in the lounge.
Les Faux Bourgeois is even closer to home. It’s also my friends’ secret weapon to lure me out of the house. (I rarely resist the last-minute invitation when pals call me from the bar.) A quick catch-up over a glass as I steal their fritesfeels like a mini-vacation in France. My current tipple of choice here is the 2014 Odé d'Aydie Pacherenc du Vic Bilh AOC Sec ($9.50/glass). From France’s southwest, it’s a blend of the native Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng grapes, which make for a juicy mouthful of apricot, pink grapefruit, almond and pear.
Kitsilano is further afield for me, but it has its draws. I first stumbled into Mission a few months after it opened, while waiting for a table at Maenam down the street. I appreciated the warm welcome and was immediately intrigued by the extensive by-the-glass program, spanning a large range of prices and regions. For $9, you can stay local with the charmingly aromatic 2015 Sea Star Ortega from Pender Island, or spring for the elegant 2014 White Rose Pinot Noir from Oregon ($26/glass). With Rachelle Goudreau (formerly of the Wine Bar at Provence Marinaside) now at the helm, the selection is sure to stay fresh.
Finally, after a Gastown yoga session, I sometimes stop by Wildebeest to prolong my Zen-like state. The young Justin Everitt has put together an eclectic list, from sake to wines of every colour (including orange). The 2015 Laughing Stock Amphora ($14/glass), from the Okanagan, falls into the latter category. A blend of Viognier and Roussanne, it harks back to winemaking of yesteryear: Skins are macerated with the juice for months, and the wine is aged in clay vessels. Have a seat at the bar and ask Justin about it.
