Every once in a while, there is a restaurant that makes a distinct and memorable impression on a city’s dining scene. That impression is based on multiple factors that all work together to create a “top” establishment. More than the food and drinks, it’s the experience of the guest; their reaction to the setting, service and vibe, the feel of a place, that sets the tone. This year, that restaurant is Hawksworth.
Hawksworth swept our Best in the City Dining awards this year, winning for Best Chef, Best Sommelier, Best Service, Best Fine Dining, Best Downtown Restaurant, Best Interior Decor, Best Wine List, Best Private Dining Room, and taking second place for Best Bartender. It’s an impressive roster of wins for a fine dining spot, especially in a city notorious for its love of casual dining. How to explain its popularity?
“When we set out to open Hawksworth Restaurant, we knew we wanted to show our city a modern approach to fine dining,” explains owner and executive chef David Hawksworth.
“But we also wanted to be inclusive and offer a range of options. I believe we have successfully shown that the highest quality food and the best service don’t necessarily have to come with a starched white tablecloth and a stuffy atmosphere. Our rooms have a great energy and our menus are versatile, with a focus always on quality ingredients and fresh flavours.”
But, it’s more than about just one man.
“Our restaurant’s continued success is the culmination of our team’s dedication day after day; we are fortunate to have some very talented and passionate people working with us,” explains Hawksworth.
That team includes chef de cuisine Kristian Eligh, who is responsible for the day-to-day operations of the kitchen, which comprises a whopping 42-member brigade that includes celebrated pastry chef Wayne Kozinko.
“The team makes it stand out. I’m very fortunate that I’ve managed to hold on to our core management team in the kitchen,” says Eligh. “You can really push the limits of what’s possible when everyone learns each other’s ins and outs.”
Eligh, who previously was the opening chef de cuisine at Market, as well as Diva at the Met, credits Hawksworth with encouraging his evolving approach to food.
“As you mature as a chef, you learn to start removing things from the plate. Young chefs want to put a ton of work into every plate, show off their skill, but as you get older, the level of refinement and technique grows, but you also learn to de-clutter.
David has really pushed that over the years. It’s all about clean, simple, pure flavours. I find it more of a challenge to make just three ingredients all sing together on a plate, rather than have seven out of 10 ingredients work together.”
The team philosophy rises again when speaking to wine director Bryant Mao.
“We have seven sommeliers, including myself. Every night we have at least three on the floor, on weekends there’s at least four,” he says. “I really appreciate the support I have from the whole team.”
Mao also credits Hawksworth for allowing his team to push boundaries.
“There’s a lot of freedom for us to play around, which means we can get people to try things outside of their comfort zone, according to their tastes. We can promote small, boutique producers from Slovenia, Hungary, Italy, France and, of course, BC. It’s a very strong list that works well with the food that [David and Kristian] produce.”
That solid representation extends to the cocktail and spirits program, led by head bartender Cooper Tardivel.
“We wanted first to represent every spirit category with quality cocktails, so not just heavy on gin and light on whiskey,” explains Tardivel. “We also try to focus on having a good balance between user-friendly cocktails, as well as cocktails that are more a little intricate, forward-thinking, for the cocktail connoisseur; something for everyone.”
Tardivel also credits the teamwork involved in running a successful program.
