This year's release of Beaujolais Nouveau arrived last Thursday, and as wine is often taken far too seriously, I’m all for this lighthearted celebration. You can turn your nose up at it, but take it for what it is: Merely a toast to the most recent harvest (and, yes, a way for producers in Beaujolais to make a quick buck).
Just do me a favour and don’t mistake Nouveau as a representation of the region of Beaujolais. In order to get bottles on the shelf less than three months after the grapes were picked, Nouveau relies on specific vinification techniques to make it immediately approachable. While there’s nothing wrong with this, the wine is more an expression of its winemaking methods than the grape or the region it comes from. Think banana, bubble gum, and cinnamon hearts.
If you truly want to discover Beaujolais (and I highly suggest you do), pick up some other bottles from this region. All red Beaujolais is crafted from the Gamay grape, which charms with an exuberance of pure summer berries. Light bodied with juicy acidity and low tannin, it’s similar to Pinot Noir. Basic Beaujolais is usually simple and quaffable. Though still sprightly, wines labeled Beaujolais-Villages display a step up in terms of concentration and depth.
At the top end of Beaujolais' hierarchy, 10 communes stand out for their superior quality and distinct personality. Referred to as Crus, they can offer beautiful floral and mineral notes along with all of those red berries. The romantic sounding names of Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, or St. Amour are what you will see on the label. These Crus often don’t even reference the region of Beaujolais anywhere on the bottle.
By all means pick up a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau but add a Beaujolais-Village or Cru Beaujolais to your shopping basket then organize a comparative feast with friends. I drink Beaujolais with roasted chicken, pork, salmon, tuna, take-out Chinese food, cheese, and charcuterie or simply on its own. As a final tip, give your Beaujolais a very slight chill to keep it extra refreshing and allow the purity of the fruit to shine.
2012 Louis Jadot, Combes aux Jacques • Beaujolais-Villages AOC, France • $21.99, BC Liquor Stores
Pure raspberry and lightly mineral with a silky texture and fleshy red plum finish. I’d be quite happy sipping on this with cheese and charcuterie.
2011 Georges Duboeuf, Jean Ernest Descombes • Morgon AOC, France • $21.99, BC Liquor Stores
A fine boned but structured Cru Beaujolais. All red currants and granite with a hint of clove, it’s perfect for digesting a hearty meal of grilled sausages.
2012 Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorées l’Ancien • Beaujolais AOC, France • $24.98, BC Liquor Stores
A basic Beaujolais that totally over performs. Wild forest strawberries leap from the glass of this elegant wine. Looking for a red to go with fish? Voilà!
2010 Domaine des Nugues • Fleurie AOC, France • $24.99, BC Liquor Stores
While bright and crunchy, this Cru Beaujolais shows slightly darker fruit with a noticeable grip of tannin. Take it seriously and serve with pork.
2013 Matthieu & Camille Lapierre • Morgon AOC, France • $39.99, BC Liquor Stores
From the top-rated Cru of Morgon. A heady fragrance of cherry blossoms and violets proceeds fresh red summer berries and profound minerality. Gorgeous with salmon.
