Italy owes a lot to Pinot Grigio. It has turned wine drinkers onto the country’s whites in hoards. Curiously, this grape isn’t actually native to Italy; though it has been grown there for many, many years. And the clean, light, crisp style that defines Italian Pinot Grigio has captivated the thirsty masses.
I think of Pinot Grigio as a polite and pleasant gatekeeper. If you’ve made it to the threshold, it’s time to venture all the way in. Italy offers an endlessly fascinating roster of its own indigenous grapes, which, dare I say, are more expressive of Italy’s charismatic character.
Admittedly, the name of some of these lesser-known grapes can be difficult to pronounce. Just get over it. The Italians, who are incredibly generous and patient, won’t judge you. They just want you to try their whites, which, like the Italians themselves are full of personality and so easy to like.
Here are five to get you started.
From the central region of Le Marche, Verdicchio is truly one of Italy’s greatest white grapes. While most are aged in stainless steel to preserve Verdicchio’s freshness and vibrancy, more ‘serious’ examples might see some oak. Quality across all style is very high and the best are indisputably ageworthy.
2015 Umani Ronchi, ‘Casal di Serra’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC $17.39 BC Liquor Stores
Umani Ronchi crafts the whole gamut of Verdicchio with the Casal di Serra representing a well priced, unoaked example. Anise, yellow apple, blanched almond and intense lemon notes make it so perfect with in-season asparagus.
The drop-dead-gorgeous region of Campania is blessed with dozens of delicious grapes. In terms of whites, it’s difficult to choose just one from the trifecta of Greco, Fiano and Falanghina. However, of the three, Falanghina is the most extroverted making it a great place to start.
2014 La Guardiense, ‘Janara’ Falanghina del Sannio DOP $19.29 BC Liquor Stores
Juicy pear, apricot and hints of fragrant pine needles burst from the glass of this mid-weight charmer. Fresh and giving, it’s friendly enough to drink on its own but equally affable with our local halibut.
I’ll be honest, Carricante is one of my person favourites. I like my whites with tangy acidity, which this grape has in spades. It also grows in one of the most extraordinary wine regions in the world; high up on the slopes of Mount Etna. Wild flowers and bees keep Carricante company as it looks out over the impossibly blue Ionian Sea below.
2015 Pietradolce, Carricante, Etna Bianco DOC $30-35 private wine stores such as Village Liquor Store, Liberty Wine, O’Hare’s Liquor Store
The Pietradolce captures the unique environment in the glass. Honey crisp apple, fennel blossom and chamomile simply vibrate on a racy salty backbone.
Garganega is one of Italy’s oldest grapes and the classy white behind the denomination of Soave. Alas, a glut of mediocre, generic bottlings made from high yields robbed Soave of its fine reputation. To understand why this region rose to fame and experience the appeal of Garganega, look for estates like Inama, Pieropan and Prà.
2016 Prà, ‘Otto’ Soave Classico DOC $35-38 private wine stores such as Kitsilano Wine Cellar, Marquis Wine Cellars
A benchmark for Soave, Prà offers pretty lavender aromas, fleshy concentrated peach and a seductive creaminess. Rich without being heavy, it will stand up to chicken infused with scented summer herbs.
The Cortese grape reaches its apogee in the Gavi DOCG. This is another denomination that has fallen out of favour due to downright skinny and tart wines bearing the Gavi name. Thankfully, the region’s better winemakers know how to give just the right amount of flesh to Cortese’s svelte frame.
2015 Broglia, ‘La Meirana’ Gavi DOCG -$37-38 private wine stores such as High Point Wines + Spirits
This is what Gavi is supposed to taste like. It’s not an overtly fruity wine, but, rather, steely, minerally and compelling with discreet suggestions of citrus and apple blossom. Well-worth seeking out, La Meirana screams for seafood.
Prices exclusive of taxes.
