Kitsilano has come a long way from its student ghetto/hippie days. Remember the small mom-and-pop ethnic eateries, shoe repair stores, and cheap watering holes that lined West 4th and West Broadway? The mom-and-pop shops are still there to some degree, but, over the last two decades, the neighbourhood’s restaurant scene, especially, has slowly transformed into a more urban, contemporary, and varied landscape.
With so many new spots opening each year, it’s easy to forget about older, more established options. The following restaurants have not only stood the test of time (be it three or 30 years), but are still sending out fantastic food.
Bishop’s
The grand-daddy of Vancouver’s sustainable dining scene, Bishop’s has been quietly churning out the best of BC for almost three decades in the cozy, warm room that is wrapped in First Nations art. Words like local, ethical, seasonal, and sustainable weren’t even dreams in most restaurateurs’ minds, but John Bishop had a vision and stuck by it.
The result has been food that has come to define what West Coast cuisine is today. And, while Bishop has handed over the day-to-day cooking to executive chef Ron Shaw, the food still bears his particular stamp of deliciousness. The menu is seasonal (natch), but try not to miss the chestnut and squash ravioli ($15) or the Fraser Valley duck with Brussels sprouts and crispy polenta ($37).
Kitsilano Daily Kitchen
Brian Fowke may not be a name you’re familiar with, and that’s just a damn shame. For almost five years, this talented chef has been creating daily menus two blocks from Kits Beach that’ll have you forgetting the waves and focusing on the wine and food. Formerly the chef/owner of Rare and Metro, Fowke is dedicated to the extreme when it comes to the quality of his ingredients.
Everything is sourced locally, apart from some seasonings. All bread is baked in-house, and everything else is made from scratch. Fowke shops daily before the restaurant opens for dinner, then designs the menu based on what he finds and posts it to his website and social media channels. You can opt for à la carte from the rotating dozen or so menu items, or you can be daring and go for the six-course menu ($85) chosen by chef (I highly recommend this option). It all changes daily, so prepare for the unexpected and delightful. Plus, the corkage policy is second to none.
Maenam
Thai cuisine in Vancouver has generally been looked upon as a quick and cheap Tuesday night meal that is guaranteed to fill you up via lashings of pad thai, tom yum, papaya salad, etc. Then Angus An came along and opened Maenam in 2009 and the crowds went wild. Items like the house-fermented and grilled Thai sausage with garlic, chilies, lemongrass, and fried shallots ($11), or the Humboldt squid with green mango ($17) have been favourites from opening day.
But, it’s the really lovely, contemporary, and comfortable room that makes this more than a dine-and-dash experience. Add in the truly fantastic wine and cocktail list, and you can begin to understand why this has become an award-wining restaurant many times over. Best value is the chef’s menu (five courses for $32.50 per person) or the Royal Thai dinner ($47.50 per person for nine courses served family style).
Moderne Burger
So what’s the big deal about a burger, you ask? Not much, really, unless you’re into extra-primo-good cuts of beef steak that are ground up and served as naked as possible. And, really, when you’re talking ground sirloin from a good cow, do you need anything else? Just the toppings, please. Lettuce, tomato, red onion, mayo, and house sauce have made up the basic formula since 2008, although grilled mushrooms and onions are always sure bets.
And, the room is a treat; all checkered linoleum and Formica counters. It’s the neighbourhood hangout from 1958, just with better meat. The burger and fries platter is $10.95, but save a few bucks and get the burger alone ($7.95) and share a side of fries ($4.25) with a friend. They’re cut to order and the portion is monstrous. Even three sharing won’t feel skimped. Throw in a classic soda (cherry Coke?) or a perfect milkshake (creamsicle, dude), and it’s the full meal deal.
La Quercia/L’Ufficio
This teeny neighbourhood trattoria has been serving fine Italian fare since 2008 with more than just a dash of la dolce vita. La Quercia’s 35 seats are routinely full every night, and it’s thanks to chef/owner Adam Pegg’s commitment to quality ingredients and process. Meat is butchered in-house, pastas and risotto are made from scratch every day (the risotto often sells out early, so think about pre-ordering), and the menus change daily based on what’s available and in season.
Definitely go for the chef’s menu (seven or 11 courses, served family-style) if you have the appetite. It’s always great value and will leave you feeling sated and happy with the world. Sometimes, if you’re lucky, the three-course offal menu makes an appearance (around $36). No worries if you’re not into the odd bits, there’s plenty of pork belly with octopus, or roasted bone marrow, or whole branzino, or rabbit loin, or pheasant, or…you get the idea.
At L’Ufficio next door, it’s wine bar offerings, with Italian cheeses, housemade and imported salumi, and small bits of things that are indescribably good. For hungrier souls there are three-course meals that might include mushroom crepes, beef cheeks and the aforementioned pork belly (who needs dessert when there’s crackling?). The two make a perfect oasis in the tony West Side and are as addictive as Nonna’s pasta sauce.
