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Five Whistler youngbloods to watch out for

Whistler’s restaurant scene has grown by leaps and bounds over the last few years, thanks in large part to some strong young talents that have come to be major influences on the scene.
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Dominic Fortin, Bearfoot Bistro executive pastry chef, serves a batch of his infamous "nitro" ice cream.

Whistler’s restaurant scene has grown by leaps and bounds over the last few years, thanks in large part to some strong young talents that have come to be major influences on the scene. These young industry buccaneers (all in their 30s) are building on the work of their predecessors and forging new lines of culinary greatness. Watch out, these are the new guard of Whistler.

James Paré, Executive Chef, Caramba

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Paré was born and raised in BC and was introduced to the hospitality industry by his uncle Jay. Paré went on to intern in Whistler and eventually puddle-jumped to the U.K. to become the executive chef at the Savoy Hotel in London. After four years of running a staff of 94 chefs in one of London’s most iconic hotels, Paré is back in Whistler starting this month, and back in business with his uncle, who just bought popular Caramba restaurant from long-time Whistler local Mario Enero. The two Parés are essentially going into business together, and James is looking to revamp the Mediterranean-focused menu with a new contemporary European approach that focuses on comfort.

“I think what Mario set out to do is amazing and certain signature dishes, like the calamari la plancha, will definitely stay,” says Paré. “I’m looking forward to playing around with some dishes, getting creative and using seasonal inspiration, and especially working with the local farmers again.”

Paré will have a smaller kitchen than what he’s used to (15 to 20 chefs, as opposed to almost 100), but it sounds like the dreams are big and bright, and the focus is on fun food well done. The restaurant re-opens with the new menu on Nov. 13.

Jean-Pierre Boulot, Restaurant Chef, Sidecut, Four Seasons Whistler

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Running a restaurant kitchen is never an easy job, especially when that restaurant sits in one of the largest and most opulent hotels in Whistler. For Boulot, however, this job at least offers familiarity, as he has worked for other Four Seasons properties for the last seven years. With more than a decade of experience under his belt, working at Michelin-starred properties from Switzerland to England to France to Martinique, and Bora Bora, Boulot now runs the restaurant kitchen under executive chef Tony Martindale. With an eye on taking the menu to new fine-dining heights, while still maintaining the feel of the contemporary steak house, Boulot acknowledges he has his work cut out for him.

“Obviously, it’s a steak house, so there’s a limit to what can be changed,” he admits, “but we are working to expand on what we have and will listen to the feedback we receive.” Boulot delights in catering to special requests from guests that allow him to work both on and off the menu. “Every request is a chance to experiment and expand our repertoire. Our guests’ feedback will tell us what will work and what will not.”

If a recent visit was anything to judge by, that feedback will be in the form of song.

Samantha Rahn, Wine Director, Araxi Restaurant

Samantha Rahn

Rahn isn’t a Whistler native, but she seems born to the role. Avid about snow sports, Rahn fell into the hospitality world during her days as a music student performing in the Banff youth orchestra. Finances dictated finding a job, which led to the Saskatchewan farm girl moving to mountain country. There, it became apparent that wine studies were way cooler than clarinet. Eventually, another mountain town beckoned, both personally and professionally, and Rahn moved to Whistler before even applying for the then-vacancy at Araxi for wine director.

“I knew this was my next job. They [Araxi] didn’t know it yet, but I knew it,” laughs Rahn.

Her confidence was justified, and she’s now celebrating 10 years at the restaurant. Her direction with the wine list has garnered her international attention and numerous awards, including Sommelier of the Year at last year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival. She now runs an inventory of 11,000 bottles and counting, making this one of the province’s largest and best cellars. Her taste has proven to be impeccable, and she is as much of a draw for diners as the stellar food put out by executive chef James Walt.

Eric Griffith, Owner/Wine Director, Alta Bistro

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Fine dining based on local, seasonal ingredients was long held in a tight monopoly by a handful of restaurants in Whistler. Then, a few years back, Alta Bistro opened, and the landscape shifted. This little-bistro-that-could has made a strong name for itself, thanks to its uncompromising commitment to local, quality growers and producers, its excellent chef, one Nick Cassettari, and the truly outstanding wine program, courtesy of Griffith, former wine director at Umberto’s Il Caminetto and a Whistler native.

For a small restaurant on the outskirts of the village, this list packs plenty of punch, especially in the by-the-glass department. It also focuses on natural, biodynamic and organic wines, perfectly in keeping with the food ethos, and roams from BC to Washington, Italy and New Zealand. Griffiths is responsible for bringing together a strong team in a challenging environment. Who knows? Whistler today, tomorrow Vancouver?

Dominic Fortin, Executive Pastry Chef, Bearfoot Bistro

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Ah, the sweet ending. So important to the overall experience of any meal. And, thanks to Fortin, the Bearfoot experience always ends on a high note.

“Creativity is key,” says Fortin about his inspiration for such signature desserts as his “nitro” ice cream, made using just cream, sugar, and vanilla, and then flash-frozen using liquid nitrogen. The whole dessert is prepared table-side and served with self-serve sundae toppings like chocolate pearls, nuts, dried fruits, chocolate sauce, etc. Fortin likes to keep his offerings seasonal and simple, focusing on one or two key ingredients, like his popular Mandarin, a dessert bombe in the shape of a mandarin, but concealing a creamsicle-like interior.

I like to be experimental, but keep the presentation simple, focusing on the actual ingredients.”

Sweet.

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