Dim sum literally means touch the heart and, in a Western context, its considered Chinese-style tapas. Historically, it was a meal served at teahouses for farmers along the Silk Road, a loud experience with music and snacks.
Nowadays, throughout China it is a brunch shared by friends and families, although a few places in Hong Kong serve it all day. Depending on the quality of restaurant, it is also seen as a luxurious activity, especially on a weekday, since it implies you dont have to work and can afford to spend hours eating and sipping tea with good company.
Along with the change in definition, the dishes have also come a long way. Vancouver dim sum chefs have become creative by adapting dishes to local tastes, but so has Hong Kong. Its a very international, lively, and modern city, so while it is one of the homes to traditional Cantonese food, there is a scene for modern dim sum.
Sure, it is an insult to mess around with a dish that took a dim sum chef his whole life to master, but if you have the foundation and technique down, then why not bring a new flavour to it?
I cant always take the purist approach; the old and the new cant be compared. Both can be appreciated in their respective categories and for the clientele they are intended for.
Here are some modern dim sum dishes and concepts in Hong Kong that might make their way to Vancouver.
1) Dim Sum Lounge and Art Gallery at Duddells, Duddells.co
This new upscale restaurant is popular with a posh crowd and social elite. It offers traditional Cantonese dishes with slight modern influences and Asian-infused cocktails in a lounge-like atmosphere. (The first floors business dress code is enforced and they also have a garden terrace and Library Room for diners to relax).
The Saturday Salon Brunch features unlimited dim sum, brut, wine and non-alcoholic drinks. While it is pricey, the chef uses premium ingredients on classic dishes. Take for example his steamed shrimp dumplings with birds nest, which is a luxury version of a prawn dumpling (har gow). The dishes are served in individual portions rather than shared tapas.
Closest thing to it in Vancouver: Bambudda in Gastown,
2) Vegetarian Truffle Dumplings at Summer Palace at Island Shangri-La Hotel
Mushrooms have been long valued for their health benefits and symbolism (long life and rebirth) in Chinese culture. However, truffles are new to the game. The Shangri-Las vegetarian dumplings stuffed with water chestnuts, oyster mushrooms, cabbage and carrots are topped with black truffle pesto, and two kinds of seaweed. For the traditional route, dont miss out on their roast duck. This two Michelin Star restaurant is deserving of its many prestigious awards.
Closest thing to it in Vancouver: 3 Mushroom Dumplings at Jade Restaurant in Richmond.
3) Molecular Xiao Long Bao (XLB) at Bo Innovation
Canadian-raised chef Alvin Leung, who is also a judge on MasterChef Canada, is the king of molecular gastronomy in Hong Kong. Previously an engineer, he takes Chinese cooking to the extreme at his restaurant, Bo Innovation.
Its not for everyone, but the creativity is admirable, techniques professional, and food thoughtful.
The XLB is sensitive to being altered, but his interpretation of it uses reverse specification so all you get is the pork soup, which is the most desirable part in XLB.
Closest thing to it in Vancouver: Sorry, you must go to Hong Kong for anything he does.
Mijune Pak wrote this column while on a trip to Hong Kong. Meals courtesy of Tourism Hong Kong and accommodations were provided by Hotel Indigo and Lanson Place Hotel. Find out more about Mijune at FollowMeFoodie.com or follow her on Twitter @followmefoodie.
