In December I went on a culinary press trip to Mexico City and Oaxaca with Rob Feenie, the executive chef of Cactus Club restaurants. Returning home to Vancouver, I realized how limited Mexican food was here. As my Mexican friend would say Mexican food in Vancouver is still in diapers.
Believe it or not, Metro Vancouver and the greater area has about 50 Mexican restaurants. Not all of them are considered authentic and only a handful come recommended. Many are Tex-Mex, Baja (Californian), or West Coast-style Mexican, which is often considered watered down Mexican, but I dont necessarily see it as any better or worse.
They satisfy a market looking for something approachable and familiar rather than authentic or, perhaps, foreign. I havent tried all 50 restaurants, but looking at the reviews and ratings its slim pickings.
Its unfortunate that the idea of Mexican food here does not really extend beyond tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos (the last two, by the way, are Tex-Mex.)
Many regions in Mexico have their own cuisines, and while we get bits and pieces of them in Vancouver, there is one area Oaxaca that rarely, if ever gets showcased beyond its cheese and mole negro (black sauce).Oaxaca actually prides itself on seven moles, hence being the land of seven moles.
Oaxaca is an up-and-coming international hot spot for foodies. Its already widely recognized as the culinary Mecca of Mexico, however, in mainstream markets, its still overlooked and under-appreciated as a destination.
Traditional Oaxacan cooks are working with modern Oaxacan chefs, and together theyve given new meaning and life to Oaxacan cuisine. There is respect for history, local ingredients and classic techniques, but the food scene is progressive.
Oaxacan cuisine is heavy with corn, beans, and chilli peppers, and I consider it the soul food of Mexico. It is significantly different from the general Mexican cuisine were used to in much of North America, which makes it that much more special.
Maybe I was so impressed because it was so new; I barely got my feet wet, but I cant wait to go back. I highly recommend going off the beaten path if you want a taste of what can be had only in Oaxaca.
La Azucena Zapoteca Restaurant Specializes in traditional Campirano (rustic) cuisine using local and mostly organic ingredients cooked over a red clay (comol) wood fired oven. For breakfast, try the enfrijoladas (enchiladas) smothered in a black bean sauce.
Casa Oaxaca Executive chef Alejandro Ruiz is a culinary godfather in Oaxaca. Mentoring many up-and-coming chefs, he is a pioneer in progressive cuisine. Casa Oaxaca is a boutique hotel with a roof-top restaurant which was #34 on the 2013 Latin Americas 50 Best Restaurants list.
Tlamanalli Restaurant Abigairl Mendoza is one of the most well-respected traditional cooks in Oaxaca. Even in Mexico it is hard to find someone hand grinding corn kernels to make corn tortillas from scratch, but Mendoza is world renowned for this skill which is considered an art.
La Pitiona This was probably one of my favourite meals last year. Bold statement. Chef and owner Jose Manuel Banos killed the tasting menu with exquisite avant garde cuisine. From traditional ceviche to liquid nitrogen churros, I was shocked it was only #43 on the Latin Americas 50 Best Restaurants list last year.
See Mijune on Breakfast Television on Feb. 13 and find her at the Sonoma Country Winery Dinner: Rodney Strong Vineyards at Brix Restaurant on Feb. 4. She will also be at Vancouver Magazines Big Night on Feb. 7 and at the Canadian Culinary Championships Gold Medal Plates in Kelowna on Feb. 8. Find out more about Mijune at FollowMeFoodie.com or follow her on Twitter and Instagram @followmefoodie.
