Shortly after a group of food writers had left Francescos last Thursday night, sated and satisfied after a dinner of new menu offerings, actor Martin Sheen and his son Ramon Estevez walked into the venerable Italian restaurant. By the end of the night, thered be one more photo of Francesco Alongi and a celebrity to squeeze onto the restaurants gallery of stars on the back wall.
Its this seemingly effortless way that Francescos manages to be offer both old-school traditions including long-time waiters who view their jobs as a valued profession and yet keep up with culinary trends that has made it such an institution in Vancouver.
Over the past year, new owner Dan Odobas has been putting his own stamp on the décor, including new artwork, custom-designed chandeliers and new tableware (as well as dropping the word Don from the restaurants former name.) When the sun shines, the patio is popular with people watchers but even on a dark November night, the view sparkles thanks to the unobstructed view of Sutton Places lights across Burrard Street. (The restaurants proximity to several downtown hotels is one of the reasons why its such a go-to place for visiting celebrities. That, and the waiters discreteness.)
Although Alongi no longer owns the restaurant, hes still a welcome presence in the kitchen and front of house. Charming and hospitable, hes also got a keen eye for details when it comes to watching what goes out on a plate. At 73, he cares deeply about his guests happiness and comfort (although he is not as likely to break out into operatic song as he was in the past.)
Vancouvers food scene is much different than it was 50 years ago, when he arrived from his native Sicily only to discover a city that seemed caught in a puritanical time warp. He wondered if hed come to the right place when he was told women were not allowed to enter establishments that served liquor unescorted.
But he not only endured; in an industry where restaurants come and go with frightening speed, he set standards.
Executive chef Jacob Do has worked
alongside Alongi in the kitchen for 11 years, mastering classics such as veal marsala and wild boar filet. His soon-to-be-classics such
as butter-soft sable fish with garlic, lemon, saffron and white wine (pictured), as well as a new seafood linguine, are now tempting diners to explore new tastes.
Francescos.com | 860 Burrard | 604-685-7770
