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Fresh from the Vancouver Farmers Market: Onions

Onions are an essential in the kitchen, theres no denying it. They are often the key ingredient to add depth to soups, stew, sauces and stocks.
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Onions are an essential in the kitchen, theres no denying it. They are often the key ingredient to add depth to soups, stew, sauces and stocks. While in the store they can be found fresh, frozen, canned, pickled, powdered and dehydrated, the farmers markets offers a rainbow of possibilities. Deep red, blushing pink and an array from white to yellow, their flavours are as varying sharp, spicy, tangy and pungent or mild and sweet.

Onions can take a starring role, though. Its all how you cook them.

By cooking them low and slow, the once-pungent raw bulb becomes sweet and tender. This sweetness can be spread on sandwiches and pizzas, or as a garnish on just about any meat and fish, especially salmon. At room temperature, theyre a welcome addition to a salad or stirred into a sauce.

Ask your farmer to recommend an onion variety to enjoy in this versatile recipe.

Low and Slow Melted Onions

Based on Thomas Kellers Ad Hoc At Home recipe

8 cups sliced onions (about 3 large)

Salt

cup unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces

1 sachet 1 bay leaf, 3 thyme sprigs, 10 peppercorns, 1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled, tied up in a 7-inch square of cheesecloth.

Keep an eye on the heat while cooking the onions. Slight adjustments will have to be made because at no point during the cooking do you want the onions to begin to brown. Put the onions in a large frying pan, set over medium-low heat, sprinkle with two generous pinches of salt, and cook, stirring often, for about 20 minutes, until the onions have released much of their liquid.

Stir in the butter, add the sachet, cover with a lid left a bit open and cook slowly over low to medium-low heat for another 30 to 35 minutes. The onions should look creamy at all times; if the butter separates, or the pan look dry before the onions are done, add a bit of cold water and stir well to re-emulsify the butter. The onions should be meltingly tender but not falling apart or mushy. Season to taste with salt. Once cooled, the onions can be refrigerated for up to five days.

Jenn Chic is a writer, photographer, baker, cook and the market manager for the Kitsilano and Kerrisdale Farmers Markets. JennChicCooks.com EatLocal.org

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