With food writers from East Coast to West screaming that brunch is dead, opening a breakfast/brunch place would seem counter-intuitive. Robbie Kane, however, is a man who obviously sings his own tune. What started as a partnership with the owners of Chambar has blossomed into a sole-proprietor joint in a new space with a fantastic new chef.
The new location of Medina is definitely worth a look. Not only is it bigger and brighter than the old space on Beatty, the atmosphere is much more conducive to merry fast-breaking. High ceilings, poured concrete floors, a large open kitchen, and an excellent playlist at a level that still allows for easy conversation are all points in its favour.
As for the chef, Jonathan Chovancek, one-half of the popular Bittered Sling group (with business and life-partner Lauren Mote), is hashing up some truly excellent nosh. A fricassée of fall-apart braised beef short ribs ($17) is laced with roasted potatoes, caramelized onions and applewood-smoked cheddar, then topped with two eggs fried to your preference. Served in a large skillet with some housemade focaccia, it’s an enormous and soul-satisfying dish that can easily be shared between two if you’re not overly hungry.
Another skillet, this one featuring spicy Moroccan lamb meatballs ($17) in a roasted pepper-and-tomato stew, with raita and grilled focaccia, and topped with the ubiquitous poached eggs, is another excellent choice. There is something about an aromatic tomato sauce combined with the cool sweetness of herbed yogurt that works so well when counterparted against the almost feral element of lamb.
Dishes like the Lem-Marrakech-cured wild salmon with sesame yogurt, sprouted farro and pistachio ($17) may sound lighter than those lovely short ribs, but don’t be fooled. Portion sizes here are designed to be generous, so unless you’re a professional athlete carb-loading for a meet, leaving hungry isn’t likely.
For those who just can’t stomach eggs for brunch, the Belgian liège waffles ($3.15 each) are still around, as are the myriad of sauces ($1). Try the white chocolate pistachio rosewater for kicks, although my favourite is the milk chocolate lavender.
For something to nibble on until the big plates arrive, I’d recommend the mascarpone drizzled in black pepper honey ($5). Combine it with the flatbread ($4) for something quite heady, rich and perfectly sweet. Or go with a side of the merguez lamb sausage ($6); it comes with housemade baba ganoush and the spiciness of the sausage is nicely balanced by the earthy creaminess of the eggplant.
There’s even dessert, of a sort – Earnest cardamom ice cream ($2). I’d suggest throwing it in a coffee for an improv affogato post-meal. It’ll clear the palate and the stomach in preparation for another early morning chat ‘n’ chew. Long live brunch.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Ambiance: ****
Value: ****
Overall: ****
Open Monday-Friday, 8am-3pm; weekends and holidays, 9am-3pm.
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
