Ireland’s still in a state of PTSD as a result of the gender-altering kick in the shamrocks it received following 2008’s global crash.
Almost overnight the country dropped from its position as poster child of the European Union to one of an economic basket case run from a back office in Berlin. Now, five years later, though the pain of austerity persists, the country’s finally out of intensive care.
On a recent trip to Dublin, my first in four years, I sensed a changing mood in the city. There’s a buzz in the air, a new optimism, restaurants are full again because eating out is cheaper, and tourist numbers are up due in part to “The Gathering” — a government-inspired marketing initiative that gave Brand Ireland a much-needed kick in the lederhosen.
I checked out some old haunts and discovered some new ones — here are a few I’d recommend:
GRAND CANAL SQUARE
A kilometre east of the city centre, on the south bank of the River Liffey sits Grand Canal Square — an ambitious redevelopment of the city’s long-neglected waterfront. Marketed as a “vibrant, new business and cultural quarter” this two-acre space built on Dublin’s historic gasworks site goes against the grain by living up to its billing.
The unpredictable weather and lack of defined seasons can affect all outdoor experiences. Here, you can stroll the beautifully designed plaza, relax and enjoy some al fresco dining throughout the year, then tend to your mild hyperthermia by taking in a show at the new Bord Gáis (pronounced Bored Gosh) Energy Theatre.
History blends with creativity and innovation in this neck of the woods. Windmill Lane recording studio, most associated with U2, is located nearby while Facebook, Google and Twitter’s European operations are all headquartered here. No surprise then that restaurants are aplenty and always busy.
Indulge in some social networking over a bite to eat at the Ely Gastro Bar followed by a cocktail on the rooftop garden of the adjacent Marker Hotel where you can tweet and Instagram jaw-dropping views of the city.
GLASNEVIN CEMETERY & MUSEUM
There are two ways to end up in Glasnevin Cemetery — the second way is to take the tour. Situated a few kilometres north of Dublin’s downtown, the award-winning Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum Tour (glasnevintrust.ie) constantly tops the list as one of Ireland’s most popular tourist attractions.
Since opening for business in the 1830’s this, the country’s largest cemetery, has served as the final resting place for 1.5 million souls. The tour is riveting and emotional, a crash-course in Irish history, for here you’ll find Ireland’s Gods — its presidents, prime ministers, revolutionaries, statesmen (and stateswomen) lying side-by-side with Brendan Behan.
FADE STREET
There was a time when a three-course dinner in the city could cost as much as a lipectomy but now post-recession Dublin is all about great food at affordable prices. New restaurants are opening everywhere and this “new deal” is evident in the cluster of eateries and bars that have sprung up in and around Fade Street, a short stroll from Grafton Street, the city’s main shopping thoroughfare.
Fade Street’s unofficial mayor is Dylan McGrath, Ireland’s über-talented but unsmiling celebrity chef and owner of the bustling Fade Street Social (fadestreetsocial.com), and its culinary cousin, Rustic Stone. McGrath fell from grace when Mint, his Michelin Star restaurant went belly-up in 2009. Now he’s back with a bang, if not a smile. With a trimmed down menu, locally-sourced ingredients, and yes, you guessed it — great food at affordable prices, Dubliners can’t get enough of it.
Across the street is the recently opened Drury Buildings. A more chic alternative to Fade Street Social, it has become known for its killer cocktails, confident cooking and slick decor. Bar manager Paul McDonald boasted of having the largest whisky collection of any restaurant in Dublin, while pointing out that the bar’s fixtures and fittings were flown in specially from New York. After my fourth Glenfiddich I started to believe him.
A DART TO DALKEY
Dublin’s version of the SkyTrain, the optimistically named DART, runs in a north/south direction along the city’s picturesque east coast. My favourite leg of this trip is the 40 minute ride south, from Dublin to Dalkey (pronounced Dawh-key).
This, the oldest section of rail line in Ireland, remains above ground until you reach the ferry port of Dunlaoghaire (pronounced Done Leery) when suddenly it sinks underground for about half a kilometre before surfacing again. The reason is that at the time of construction in 1834, Dunlaoghaire’s aristocratic families, in a blatant act of early nimby-ism, insisted that their view of the sea shouldn’t be hampered by passing trains. Their wish was granted.
Dalkey is a small, charming village, home to some great bars, top-class restaurants and some very big names. Don’t be surprised to catch Van Morrison, Bono or Enya dropping by the local bakery, or Chris DeBurgh and Neil Jordan lamenting the passing of that other great local, Maeve Binchy.
From Dalkey’s Coliemore Harbour you can take in the scenic views across Dublin Bay but resist the temptation to take a dip — the temperature’s likely to induce a bout of Tourette’s, or erectile dysfunction, depending on which part of your anatomy hits the water first.
A PERFECT PINT IN A PERFECT PUB
Much imitated but never bettered, the Irish Pub (that is, a pub in Ireland) is coming under threat on its own turf from a decline in custom (recession-hit drinkers doing it at home) and the growth of North American-style sports bars where TV monitors outnumber punters and the downing of shots followed by bellicose roars takes the place of good conversation.
The perfect pint in the perfect pub? Some say it’s a myth but the Irish know better. The best pints of Guinness in the world are being served nightly in establishments like Kehoe’s, McDaid’s, O’Donoghues and Neary’s, all within a stones throw of Dublin city centre but easy does it — last year’s incident when a tourist from Saskatchewan was arrested for groping the Blarney Stone when it didn’t respond to a bout of heavy petting highlighted the dangers of sinking the black stuff on an empty stomach.
Dublin-born Adrian Cunningham is a writer and art director living in Vancouver.
