The West End has always been home to some of the city’s best casual dining, especially when you’re talking about ramen, sushi and hot pot. But, those aren’t the only genres of which to take advantage, as these two recent additions to the neighbourhood prove.
Ritual
Opened last spring, this first-ownership venture from chef Nevada Cope is based on her own childhood growing up in Abbotsford’s farm region. Comfort food rooted in the farm-to-table concept is the focus here, and shows itself in the daily brunch menu. A simple brunch skillet ($17) boasts crimini mushrooms, double-cooked truffle potatoes, cilantro yogurt, and changed-daily braised meat. On one visit, this was short rib, tender and falling apart at the touch of my fork. The menu also boasts some more exotic flavours, based on what Cope feels like cooking. A savoury breakfast pancake ($17) flecked with green onion is topped with succulent pulled pork, incredibly juicy and not at all greasy, as well as crispy shallots, a runny soy egg, and a drizzle of pineapple miso sauce. Don’t miss the lunch and dinner menus, especially dishes like the chickpea lamb merguez ($14) and the pescatarian escalivada ($14), a lush concoction of chilled whipped potatoes, similar to Peruvian causa, topped with roasted eggplant, bell pepper, and an anchovy dressing. ritualvancouver.com
See photos below!
Forkhill House Irish Bistro
When you think of Irish cuisine, it’s probably dishes of colcannon and various iterations of potato that come to mind, but, like contemporary Canadian cuisine, there’s more here than just the Irish version of bangers and mash. Forkhill, run by owners and husband-and-wife team Jeffrey and Jaime Lenz, opened a couple months ago in the old Fat Badger (and prior to that, Le Gavroche) space on Alberni Street. The couple brought in Tannis Smith as executive chef and worked with her to create a menu that covers comfort classics like Scotch eggs, but also goes into more exotic territory, reflecting the influence of everything from Italian and French to Moroccan and Portuguese cuisines. Ireland is a coastal country that has a climate that is relatively similar to Canada’s West Coast, so no surprise that some similarities in ingredients can be found. And, yes, that Scotch egg ($9), wrapped in a parmesan-crusted fennel sausage and perfectly runny, is fantastic, especially when paired with the spicy cilantro-garlic pesto that is dolloped on the plate. While the “Yorkies” ($5) are excellent, thanks to the very good, crispy and buttery bowls that house corned beef with sauerkraut and horseradish cream, I would suggest trying the more adventurous “Birdies” ($11), a rosemary-infused pastry encasing duck confit and mushroom duxelles with an orange-chilli chocolate mousse. If the latter makes you pause, don’t worry, it sounds odd, but it works, in the way of a slightly more aromatic mole. forkhillhouse.com
Anya Levykh is a food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
