Giardino
1328 Hornby
604-669-2422
Umberto.com/Giardino
Open Monday-Saturday, from 5:30pm until late.
Umberto Menghi can rightly be said to be one of the grandfathers of Vancouver’s restaurant scene. More than a handful of now-famous local chefs earned their knives at the original Umberto’s, as well as Il Caminetto, Il Giardino, et al. When the latter closed two years ago, it felt like the casual-upscale winds of change had finally conquered the bastion of power lunches and Italian fine dining that had made ‘90s expense accounts so bloated.
Fine dining (whatever that means these days), is the new comeback kid, it seems. With the opening of Bauhaus in Gastown, and now the rebirth of Giardino, Vancouver’s appetite for “fancy” is sharpening.
Menghi doesn’t do anything by halves. The interior of Giardino is a lush homage to Tuscany, with its wood-beamed ceilings, beautiful tiles, gilt-framed art, and sun-earth colours that envelope everyone in a golden glow. Step out back onto the patio and you’re in a large walled and shaded courtyard that would feel right at home in a side street in Florence. Despite the clear air of luxury, it’s a casual, lively vibe here that speaks to loud groups of friends and occasion dinners.
The real feeling of Italy comes through, however, is in the food. The kitchen is run by Ivo Marinov (formerly of Il Caminetto) and Giovanni Trigona. On a busy Friday night, they are both making the rounds, making sure guests are happy with their orders. Like the restaurant, which seats 120 inside and 80 on the patio, the kitchen is massive, and reflects the depth of the menu and the attention to detail.
Paccheri with spicy Italian sausage and pecorino sauce ($26.95) is a heady dish. The wide, flat noodles are an excellent al dente, and the ground sausage in the just-cheesy-enough tomato sauce is fantastic on its own. The portion was large enough for two of us to share (half-orders are also available). A classic spaghetti carbonara ($22.95) lacked the peppery kick that the name implies, but the noodles were superb.
A special one night of butterflied “calamari” steak ($19.95) was so tenderly grilled that the side of my fork was all that was necessary to cut into it. Long, thin strips were piled over a wide tower of greens dressed in a simple oil and balsamic drizzle, and studded with pomegranate seeds and halved cherry tomatoes, and surrounded with an orange reduction that hinted at curry. For larger appetites, the 38-ounce Fiorentina for two ($98.95) could easily feed four. If you’re not into sharing, the simple but unctuous veal osso buco ($42.95), served with saffron risotto and a proper spoon for scooping out the marrow, is divine.
Desserts ($14.95 each) are large, elaborate plates that are light and elegant. Almond cannoli are stuffed with a lemon ricotta cream and served with blood orange sorbet. Orange torta is a large dome covered in white chocolate mousse and meringue, and layered with strawberry gelée. Both caused more than a few groans of satisfaction.
There are no glaring elements here, everything works together in harmony, and while dinner is the only option at present, those power lunches aren’t far behind. Mangia bene, indeed.
All ratings out of five stars.
Food: ★★★★★
Service: ★★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★★★
Value: ★★★★
Overall: ★★★★★
Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday.
