Gardeners in past ages had no option but to save their own seed. They chose the most vigorous and productive plants and let them grow past harvest-time. When they flowered, pollination took place. Eventually the seedheads dried, and gardeners saved the seeds for planting in the next growing season.
Gradually, this resulted in vegetables that were tailor-made for the climate and soil of the neighbourhood where theyd been so often selected.
This can still be done with open-pollinated vegetables and self-fertile ones. With these it is important to select several seed from several individual plants each time to prevent in-breeding.
But hybrids (created by cross-breeding different types) respond very badly to seed-saving attempts. Many are self-sterile, others produce seedlings more like the parents involved.
New gardeners often start by saving bean seed. Bean flowers are usually self-fertile so cross-pollination is rare. But its still wisest to avoid planting other beans close by if theyre going to flower at the same time.
Its also best to select the earliest beans that have the characteristics you want next year (perhaps smooth skin, large size, most productive plant etc.) You need enough time for the bean pods to dry on the plant before you take them inside for storage.
This is also true for peas and broad beans. You may have read that broad beans wont cross. Not true. They can. I proved that in my garden and now have three kinds of broad beans which I have to grow in different years. One kind is the motley assortment which resulted from my learning experience.
Seed must be thoroughly dry before being stored and it should never be in plastic bags. Temporary storage in paper bags is OK, but seed dries best spread out on a flat surface. Long-term storage is best in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Seeds stay viable longer in cool conditions
But the cloves of garlic and bulbs of shallots need an airy situation. They should never be stored in the refrigerator because they tend to shoot there. Ideally, planting takes place six to eight weeks after harvesting. The clusters are broken apart and individual cloves or bulbs inserted into the soil.
Many vegetables must be grown for a second season before they produce seed. This includes carrots, beets, parsnips, celery, celeriac, turnips and Swiss chard.
Parsnips can be left out in the garden over the winter, but carrots and beets needed for seed may need to be taken in and replanted after the worst of winter especially in gardens where voles are a problem.
Storage onions can be selected over the winter and are best planted out in spring. Theyll soon grow at least 3 feet (1 metre) tall, produce a huge ball of flowers and by late summer have masses of seed. A few leeks can be left in the garden all winter (mulched for safety) and they also thrust up a magnificent globe of flowers. Neither take up much horizontal space for their magnificent gift of seed.
The cabbage family cross-pollinates so readily you can only grow one type in the garden in any one year. This includes Brussels, broccoli, kale and ball-head cabbage. By spring, your chosen plants will have morphed into a bushy, tangled mass of yellow flowers alive with tiny pollinators.
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Anne Marrison is happy to answer garden questions. Send them to her via [email protected]
