I love Chardonnay. And I'll go to great lengths to defend it.
Chardonnay went from being the world's most beloved white to inspiring a network of criticizers. Those who belong to the ABC club advocate anything but Chardonnay. This movement was largely inspired by a glut of tragically over-oaked examples.
I believe these naysayers are missing out. Chardonnay has a multitude of expressions and is actually a chameleon by nature. In the coolest of climes, it's svelte and understated while the warmest corners produce rich and tropical versions. Ageing it in new oak barrels will impart aromas and flavours of vanilla, toast and perhaps even coconut. But put Chardonnay in stainless steel tanks and these nuances won't naturally develop. Other winemaking techniques may render Chardonnay buttery or savoury and potentially more complex.
I believe there's a Chardonnay for every palate. Personally, I appreciate the full range. It's all about balance. Wherever it's grown and however it's made, a good Chardonnay should have all of its components in proportion.
The selections below tend toward just subtle or even no oak in an attempt to lure deserters back to the Chardonnay fold.
2014 Louis Latour, Ardèche Chardonnay • Coteaux d'Ardèche IGP, France • $16.49, BC Liquor Stores
A medium weight and juicy Chard with lovely purity of pear and citrusy flavours sporting a gentle twist of spice.
2013 McWilliams, Appellation Series Chardonnay • Tumbarumba, Australia • $21.99, BC Liquor Stores
A favourite in my arsenal of Aussie Chard recommendations, of which I have many. This one hails from the cool and high altitude region of Tumbarumba. Well-integrated oak adds a welcome layer of complexity and doesn't overwhelm the succulent notes of white peach.
2013 La Chablisienne, La Pierrelée • Chablis AOC, France • $29.49, BC Liquor Stores
Chablis is the poster child for unoaked Chardonnay. The chilly reaches of this region also result in a leaner expression. Many a Chablis have fooled Chardonnay critics. La Pierrelée is a classic example demonstrating green apple, mineral, high lemony acid and a steely backbone.
2013 Clos des Fous, Locura 1 Chardonnay • Alto Cachapoal DO, Chile • $35-37, private wine stores (such as Marquis Wine Cellars and Everything Wine)
Made by Pedro Parra, a wine “rock star” in Chile (he's a soil expert). The only oak this wine sees is a mere five per cent and it isn't even new. What it does offer is lots of fresh fleshy and concentration fruit along with lively tension and savoury texture. It's delicious proof that Chile can do complex serious wine just as well as cheap and cheerful.
2008 Blue Mountain, Blanc de Blancs • Okanagan Valley, BC • $39.90, winery direct
Yet another reason to love Chardonnay is that it makes some of the best traditional method sparkling wines. In general, Chardonnay lends finesse to Champagne. The most elegant examples are made exclusively from this grape and referred to as Blanc de Blancs. BC produces a few gems in this mould. Blue Mountain is an intriguing and complex mix of brioche, buttery mushrooms and lemon tart with a long nutty finish.
• Prices exclusive of taxes.
