Kozakura
280 Carrall St.
604-720-3145
KozakuraGastown.ca
Open Mon.-Sat., 5pm-late. Open for lunch Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-3pm
Vancouver has plenty of izakayas: little (and a few not-so-little) Japanese gastropubs that focus on small plates, designed to pair well with beer or sake. They’ve become almost as common here as the casual sushi joint on the corner. High-end restaurants like Masayoshi and Minami are also on the rise, finally giving the long-standing Tojo’s some worthy competition. But when Bill Robitaille, owner of Gastown’s three-year-old Notturno, announced last spring that he was closing the popular Italian-themed watering hole and re-opening it as the new “kappo”-style Kozakura, it was like a bell ringing out after being thoroughly cleaned. A new note had been sounded.
Kappo, which originally meant “to cook” in Japanese, has come to refer to the experience of eating what a chef prepares right in front of you. This style of cooking favours fresh, seasonal ingredients and a variety of preparation methods, from steamed and grilled to baked and fried. Kappo is about a holistic tasting experience, most often showcased through an omakase menu.
The physical change from Notturno to Kozakura reflects the change in food focus. Gone are the dark wood columns; in their place are white wainscoting under green-gray walls, bright spots of colour from modernist prints, and natural-wood tabletops flanked by comfortable padded chairs.
Robitaille may seem an unlikely contender to step up as owner of Vancouver’s first kappo eatery, but despite his French-Italian roots, he has a long-nurtured love affair with Japanese cuisine. Along with chef de cuisine Keith Allison, Robitaille has created a sake-friendly menu that doesn’t veer off the classic track, but it does use some new techniques and ingredients in the presentation. Dishes range from $6 to $12, with the omakase menu available for $45, $60, $75 or $90. Allison brings his Japanese roots to the well-crafted options, with a minimalist hand and a solid attention to detail.
Lightly charred slivers of octopus rest on a thick smear of eggplant and shiro (chickpea) purée, topped with thick grilled rings of onion ($9). Chawanmushi ($6) — heavily studded with chicken thigh, side-stripe shrimp and shitakes — has surprising and pleasing notes of yuzu and shaved black truffle. Kinmedai Suimono (golden-eyed Japanese snapper) is steamed, and served in a clear and remarkably fragrant dashi broth ($12). Sablefish ($12) is marinated in miso and sake lees before being seared, then topped with smoked woodland mushrooms and crisp, lightly pickled radish.
The menu ranges from the light (a rotating sashimi plate, a taster of local sea urchin) to the more robust, like Tsukune($10): dense meatballs topped with teriyaki sauce and a slow-cooked egg that runs like a river over the juicy beef. There’s even dessert (although, at the time of this writing, just one): a lavish dark-chocolate mousse dusted with pure matcha powder ($7).
The sake list is full of finds. A rocks glass full of Yamahai Ume (plum-infused) sake is a brilliant aperitif, and a steal at $10 a glass. Hichi Hon Yari “Seven Spears” Tama Sake Junmai is another gem (and also a bargain at the same price); drier than the plum sake, there are some beautifully earthy and acidic notes from this 15th-generation sake-maker.
There’s also a well-rounded whisky/bourbon list, as well as a couple of options for shochu, the Japanese distilled spirit usually made from rice, sweet potato or barley. But, seriously, the sake list is worth some serious exploration. Our server, Keisuke, was able to give us detailed descriptions of each sake, successfully guiding us in our choices.
Kozakura is now open for lunch, meaning day drinking is possible and necessary. The weekday menu focuses on donburi and bento boxes, so you’ll have to come back in the evening to have the full kappo experience. Trust me: you won’t mind.
Food: ★★★★1/2
Service: ★★★★
Ambiance: ★★★★
Value: ★★★★1/2
Overall: ★★★★1/2
All ratings out of five stars
★: Okay, nothing memorable.
★★: Good, shows promise.
★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring, practically perfect in every way.
Anya Levykh is a freelance food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
